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Home » Sailnet Boat Reviews » A - Boats starting with 'A' » AMF
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AMF 2100
Reviews Views Date of last review
4 4217 Mon March 3, 2014
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Recommended By Average Price Average Rating
100% of reviewers $2,700.00 7.5












Description: AMF 2100
Keywords: AMF 2100
 


Author
Review Date: Thu July 15, 1999 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 

 
Pros:
Cons:

I am the second owner and have sailed it for 13 years. The boat has 850 lbs. of internal ballast and a retractable daggerboard. It is excellent in light air. For winds above twelve knots, reef the mainsail. I have a small jib that was special ordered for heavy air. The boat has good build quality. Spars are Kenyon. Winches are Barient. Sails are Hood. Excellent hardware. It is easily singlehanded. Interior is simple and spartan, although I know people who overnight on it. It does have berths for four people and a portapotti. An excellent daysailer. I do not recommend it for shallow lakes, as it draws four feet with the board down and it doesn't kick up if it hits a rock or stump. Excellent for bays, deep rivers, or estuaries. It is a lot of fun and requires little in the way of maintenance. A lot of fun for a little money. I'm happy I have it.
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tionnausa
Junior Member

Registered: April 2003
Posts: 12
Review Date: Sat April 19, 2003 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 

 
Pros:
Cons:

Although I have only owned my AMF 2100 for a few weeks, and have sailed her about 5 times in various conditions I think this was a good purchase. Drawing just about 14" with rudder kicked up, and 850 lb. retractable fin keel in the "up" position, makes it a very good gunkholer. The room inside is adequate due to her wide beam with two continuous seating/berths on each side. It is difficult moving forward with the keel in the "up" position , and the added obstruction of the keel track/support and trunk in the middle of the main cabin area. This is not a bad thing just a little nusance. With the keel down there is a little table piece that fits on top of the trunk which serves as a small serving surface as well as a keel securing device when the 5/8"dia bolt is placed through the trunk ,table bottom, and keel. This will keep the keel down if you turtle her.The boat is fairly fast on all points of sail and is easily driven to weather pointing very high.If you are a skilled sailor I think you would enjoy the snappy response the boat give to each little tweak. The boat has two sheet/halyard wenches mounted on the aft cabin top on either side of the companion way hatch. If you single hand, you'll probably find this as annouying as I do. I'm installing two new two- speed, self-tailers just aft of the jib tracks which will be easily reached. There is no topping lift so the boom just falls into the cockpit when the main is lowered. I've just installed "The BoomKicker" which took care of the problem, and it only took about 20 min.to install!The kick-up rudder is heavy and not pinned in any manner so it could get bumped and lifted off it's pintels. The boat is made reasonably well (23 years old)and has good hardware. Mine has variuos spider web cracks around highly stessed areas, but nothing serious.The stock sails were made by "HOOD". I will update this review as I find out more imformation about this fun little boat. Well worth 3 to 4 grand.
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East Coast Hawkeye
Junior Member

Registered: December 2012
Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 11
Review Date: Tue January 15, 2013 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 8 

 
Pros: Single hand, quick response, "The BoomKicker"
Cons: Kick-up rudder is not pinned.

I JUST bought my 2100 as a fixer-upper and though I see A LOT of cabin cap repair (few holes and several cracks) I'm excited about my project <to become> hobby.
EastCoast Hawkeye
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WaterGeus
Sailing in North Florida

Registered: March 2014
Location: North Florida
Posts: 11
Review Date: Mon March 3, 2014 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: $2,700.00 | Rating: 7 

 
Pros: Lifting daggerboard and kick-up rudder
Cons: Fun and responsive boat, but the design is a bit dated after almost ~37 years

The price mentioned included a single axis trailer and 6 HP outboard in working condition.
She is easy to sail with one or two persons, although single-handed tacking is a bit of a challenge with the standard jib-sheet setup. Some extra weight (2 extra persons) on the rail pays off for racing upwind in winds over 10 kts.
Lifting daggerboard and kick-up rudder means it sits relatively low on a trailer and doesn't need much water to float (18", so it can go sail when the fixed-keel boats are stuck. The ballast is lead, reported as 850 Lb, cast onto the hull around the daggerboard trunk. Overall weight is reported as 2200 Lb. The boat has a lot of interior space for its length because of its nearly flush deck and not-so-low freeboard.
The underwater shape does not lend itself to planing, but riding waves in decent wind will get you above hull speed without problems. We have seen 7.5 knots max so far sailing deep with main and genoa. Since she does not have a wide, flat stern section, she behaves pretty nicely going upwind in waves. The stock version has a good vang but no traveller. That makes it more convenient to move forward and aft in the cockpit (no shin-buster), but many owners have upgraded to a traveller. She is a bit tender initially, but her fairly wide beam and high freeboard means she stiffens up a lot with heel.
The attached rudder assembly is not light, but also not as flimsy as some other designs for boats in this length range. It is very light on the helm with the rudder blade swung fully forward. The load goes up and the draft goes down to less than a foot as the blade is swung backwards.
The mast is an un-tapered Kenyon Spars 2740 MORC Section, fractional rig with single swept-back spreaders and an adjustable back-stay. The standard main sail area is not very large at ~ 114 sqft, and can be tweaked with halyard tension, outhaul, backstay tension plus reefs/cunningham depending on the main sail configuration. It pays to have at least a 150 or 155% genoa for light air (below 10 knots) and a ~ 100% working jib above 10 kts. The standard jib seems to be a 110% working jib, which is a good choice if you are only going to have one jib. The jib track is long enough for anything from a 80% high-wind jib sheeted inside the stays to a 170% light-air drifter sheeted outside. The standard spinaker option seems to be a fractional symmetric one with an internal halyard exiting just above the fore stay and an 8' pole attached to the mast. Mine had a mast-head external halyard installed presumably by a former owner, that I converted to an internal mast-head halyard for the 300 sqft tri-radial spinaker.
A six-horse outboard is plenty. A 20 year old two-stoke got me going into a 3-4 foot chop against 15 kts of wind without problems. For maneuvering in-port a 2 or 2.5 HP would suffice. A single sculling oar will get you at least 1.5 knots in flat water.
The hull is solid fiberglass and the deck balsa cored. Parts of the hull have molded fiberglass with smooth gel-coat to create the very long quarter-berths, narrow shelves just under the windows and a port-a-potty recess before the mast. The volume below these part is filled with foam. That will prevent or at least delay the boat from sinking if something catastrophic were to happen, but also takes away some volume that could have been storage. Still, there is plenty of space for over-nighting with two people and a decent amount of gear. The smooth surfaces inside though are nice, much nicer than painted fiberglass or plywood. There are few creature comforts inside (apart from the super-long quarterberths, port-a-potty and simply the volume), but there is also space to add a sink or stove or additional storage space if you want.
The hull and deck have overlapping outside lips that extend ~ 2" downwards, which makes for a stiff joint, that also serves as a rub-rail or sorts and toe-rail.
The daggerboard weighs about 100 Lb and seems to have a small amount of lead-shot inside (my weight measurement of a board after a lot of repairs), most of the ballast is lead in the bottom of the hull. There is a permanent tackle to lower and raise the board, attached to the mast support. The daggerboard trunk extends about a foot above the waterline. Heel alone will not allow water to seep in, but sloshing and pounding at larger heel angles will let in a little water. The standard "lid" in combination with a towel can keep that inconvenience in check. The daggerboard is swept 30 degrees back. The profile of the daggerboard (at least of mine) is quite complicated. The cord is constant, but the maximum thickness isn't, and the profile is not a standard 4-digit NACA profile as it is hollow in the aft section. It may be close to NACA 64-0008 near the hull, tapering down to ~6% or so 3/4 down to widen to ~6.5% of cord in the foot. Low drag if you can keep her in the groove, more drag than a no-hollows NACA 0008 at higher angles of attack. For a relatively light boat like this, a fatter no-hollows profile may have been better for performance (and ease of doing repairs), unless you sail in flat water.
I could babble on for another hour. If you want to know more, ask me.
All in all, this is a fun, responsive boat for a bit of racing, cruising or gunk-holing. It is trailer-able. Dry-sailing is only worth the effort in my opinion if you can leave the mast up when out of the water, or sail multiple days. The design is a bit dated, although you'll should still be able to handily outsail a Catalina 22. There are a few boats produced these days with similar length, lower weight and better performance (anybody want to trade me for a U-20 ). These also cost a LOT more.
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