This is also what happened here - they made repairs/replacements and didn't bed them. The actual chain plates all go into solid fiberglass fortunately, and the mast step is a rigid design to a stainless pole with no wood involved anywhere either. (In fact the boat sails as is)
I was curious about the drying time. That confirms what I was suspicious of. Even with prefitting everything I figured I could only go so fast. The hull shape I need to work with is all flat and then curves down to meet the hull sides just above the windows, beyond which is solid fiberglass I can tie directly to (No walkways - sort of Chrysler like in shape). So I am 1/2 considering using plywood for the flat part and balsa for the radius/joint area.
I saw an ad for a new epoxy last night from West that comes in tubes for a caulking gun that mixes as you dispense it. Named 600 or something like that I think it was called that could be handy in some spots if it is what I think it is.
Originally Posted by harborhobo
I recored about 15 feet on each side of my Nordic 44. Previous owners had never rebedded the chainplates. I removed and cleaned all 15 feet. I then cut the cleaned deck pieces into 2-3 foot sections. Even working fast with a team mixing my epoxy, it was all I could do to butter and fit 3 feet of balsa before the epoxy started to kick. I then set the old deck skin back in place. When all the sections were back in place and set, your grind down the cuts, tape and epoxy , and then fill and fair.
I did repaint the deck with Interlux Perfection. I also made sure that all of my cuts were made in areas that were later covered with non-skid. In my case, I used Kiwigrip, which was great.
Really happy with the outcome.