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Atomic 4 replacement

4K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  SailNet Archive 
#1 ·
This is an off-shoot of my other thread. C&C 35 MK1 was mentioned, and quite a few of them are for sale out there. All have Atomic 4 as an engine. Did anyone look into (or better yet - actually completed) repowering with diesel? What were the costs, issues, specific experiences? If you can recommend a place that did a good job (and did not leave you completely despondent) - even better.
 
#2 ·
the costs far outweight the benefits IMO. Unless this is going to be the last boat you ever own.
I'm not going to get into the gas vs diesel thing here, just some numbers.

a new diesel will run you 7-10k. now add a new fuel tank, lines, a couple of racors and ou've added another 2-3k.

A rebuilt a-4 from moyer will run you less than 4500.00 less shipping.
 
#4 ·
Well, thats what I was thinking. Besides potentially I could be looking at a rebuilt diesel as well. But then, as long as you don't do it yourself - there is probably a very significant cost to pay to a mechanic.

So far the biggest thing I've done is rebuilding Volvo diesel cooling system (I HATE them, really!) - that does not rise to level of real engine work, so I am not sure I am qualified to do actual replacement just yet :)
 
#5 ·
unless you're familiar with the terms "prussian blue" and "plastiguage", can read a micrometer,have the inside micke & check the bore for out of round...(kinda like prunes, is .001 too few, or is .005 too many), know which end is up on a piston ring, have a machine shop that knows the difference between checking and milling off .003 I'd leave it for the pros.
 
#7 ·
uniexpany said:
Depends on how you plan to use the boat. If you want to go offshore you are better off with a fuel-injected diesel than a carbureted gasoline inboard. If you are staying coastal the A-4 is a lovely smooth running auxilary.
Why is that? Being offshore doesn't require an engine at all so how does it matter which you have and how the fuel gets into the cylinder can't make much of a difference can it?
Robert Gainer
 
#8 ·
Repowering a sailboat is an easy project as long as you can remove the old engine and drop the new one without having to disassemble them..

The main issues are going to be:

Engine brand/model and Reduction gear choice: Here you have to do your research and due diligence.

Once you have removed the old engine and presented the new one in its place, you will be able to tell what if any changes to the engine bed need to be made. Also the lenght of the shaft could be determined. If a new shaft is needed then haul out and replace the bearing (if showing wear) the shaft and the prop.

Once the new shaft is in position with the coupler installed, position the engine on its bed and align port/stbd, mark and bolt mounts. Stop the aligment work at this stage and install s/w, f.o. and exhaust hoses and the wiring harness/gauge panel. Lauch the boat, let it settle and complete the aligment of the engine/trani to the shaft coupler. Seatrial.

You can reuse your tank (flush it), tie the return to the vent hose.

All the details involved in steps above are all over your new engine owner's manual and the internet.

If you decide to go with a diesel engine then the choices will be a used engine, rebuilt engine or a new engine. The main reason people re-power is beacuse they have had enough of the problems i.e. lack of reliability.... with the cost of labor being what it is put your $ to the best use and get a new engine. i.e. 00000 hours, no problems, 100% reliable. Regardless, you will be having to deal with installation whether you choose a used/rebuilt or new engine.

...George.
 
#9 ·
I am in the process of repowering my Pearson 10M with a new Yanmar 3YM20. The old engine is a two cylinder Farymann. I plan to keep the original fuel tank (SS), fuel lines, Racor filter and raw water strainers, control levers and cables, shaft and prop. Will have to go to larger exhaust hose, and modify the stringer beds a little. Boat comes out of the water early next week and I expect to have it running within 7 days with the new engine. I know this is not the same as going from gas to diesel.

I'm taking before and after pictures and will keep the group posted on the progress. I know there will be unexpected problems that will have to be dealt with.

I debated for a while on using a dripless stuffing box but finally decided to go conventional.
 
#10 ·
cardiacpaul said:
unless you're familiar with the terms "prussian blue" and "plastiguage", can read a micrometer,have the inside micke & check the bore for out of round...(kinda like prunes, is .001 too few, or is .005 too many), know which end is up on a piston ring, have a machine shop that knows the difference between checking and milling off .003 I'd leave it for the pros.
That was my feeling too :) I am not that skilled in engine dept. nor will I ever be, I know my limits.
 
#11 ·
George,

I am guessing by your signature you work for Beta marine? What is that product someone mentioned that is a good replacement for A4? And what's that cost?

Also, though I realize this is all subject to specific conditions of the boat, what would be the professional installation cost? If you can't give me the price for whatever reason - just a ballpark number of work-hours would do, I can multiply it by whatever labor rate here happens to be:)

georgellop said:
If you decide to go with a diesel engine then the choices will be a used engine, rebuilt engine or a new engine. The main reason people re-power is beacuse they have had enough of the problems i.e. lack of reliability.... with the cost of labor being what it is put your $ to the best use and get a new engine. i.e. 00000 hours, no problems, 100% reliable. Regardless, you will be having to deal with installation whether you choose a used/rebuilt or new engine.

...George.
 
#12 ·
JouvertSpirit... for what is worth, I think you did good by keeping the conventional stuffing box. I believe the dripless seals are a product well engineered but when you loose cooling water to them (which is not supposed to happen ;) ) you might be facing catastrophic consequences.

... been there done that ....!
 
#13 ·
Brak, indeed, I am the dealer for BETAMARINE in South Florida.

.... Figure about 5 days work +/-. I will be back in my office tomorrow... you can either call me or I'll send you an e-mail w/information and pricing.

The main reason users recommend BETAMARINE is because their (BETAMARINE'S) niche is repowering as opposed to OEM supply. Also, they are based on KUBOTA diesels which have a top notch reputation...

... gald to help. Thanks.
 
#15 ·
... different business format.

Some manufacturers price the engines at very low prices with the intent of gaining market share; this market share then becomes a captive audience for their parts/spares which are greatly overpriced and coded so as not to make it easy to find aftermarket replacements. Very much like the consumer printer/fax market, they practically give the hardware away but then you must pay for the toner/ink at a very high price/manufacturer margin.

BETAMARINE does not get into price wars to gain acceptance by the builders so you pay more on initial purchase but you can get parts at the local KUBOTA tractor dealer for decent prices (without the "Marine" mark up). We give you the KUBOTA part numbers and you are free to buy where ever you get the best pricing. Of course, we sell all parts and we have to compete with the market at large.

Also, BETAMARINE has chosen the re power niche. And when you order we can match the Atomic 4 engine mount foot print ... for example.

BETAMARINE is an OEM option on some vessels like CaboRico.

George.
 
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