Thanks for the long response georgeB. If nothing else you are letting me know I was on the right track. I bought the boat knowing I would spend at least what i spent on her on making semi safe, so that is not a shocker. I have no desire to raise a sail until I get the rigging replaced. I am calling places this week and just hoping to keep the work under $2k, but realize that might be a bit optimistic. Having done my research I understand how standing rigging works and how bad it is when it fails. Thanks for the list of riggers, and I look forward to motoring her over to a dock so someone can do it right.
Good to know welding is the way to go for the rail repair, that will be my next move along with the life line.
The bilge pump has been placed in the second tier of the bilge so it does not run constantly, this is much larger and I am guessing it would balance out the switch / water level issue better. All that said I am not opposed to replacing it with a more modern bilge system.
Packing is also as I assumed, I am a little afraid of something going wrong / breaking / not fitting back on so I may just have her hauled to have the packing done.
I do have a question: Would it be a money savings to take her to a ship yard to have the mast removed in order to remove the rigging myself to take it to a rigger to measure / rebuild, then remount it myself before restepping the mast? Like I said I would love to keep the cost of standing rigging under 2k, but realize it might make more sense to just take it to a riggers dock to deal with.
I am not looking for the prettiest boat on the bay, just something that is safe and as dependable as plausible for a 40+ year old boat.
Side note: The offshore has a full keel, no keel bolts. One of the reason I bought her.
Agent9 aka: ezra.
Congratulations on your new boat, Agent9! As you are about to experience, there are no true bargains out there and to quote the old TV add, “you can pay me now or pay me later”.
When rigging fails, 90% of the time it will do so at the swages. Very rarely does it fail mid-wire. The cracked swages indicate rust expanding to the point of cracking the swage. Be careful – your boat is living on borrowed time. If it was me, I’d get all new rigging before I sail the boat on windy San Francisco Bay. This is not a “home handyman” type of a job – you lack the tooling to do this job. Glen Hansen is way booked up so your options are either Easom Rigging in Richmond or Svendsen’s in Alameda. Both riggers will want you to bring the boat to them at their dock. You can also give the Rig shop at West Marine Alameda a call. They have a big mobile truck and most probably can do it at your dock. Just be prepared that the cost of a new rig job is probably what you originally paid for the boat.
Life lines also need to be machine swaged. Don’t do this yourself unless you have plenty of insurance. West Marine Rig Shop does this work all the time. If your pulpit and pushpit have cracks in them, you need to get it welded. No amount of epoxy is going to make it safe. Call Svendsen’s metal shop.
Your float switch seems to need a lot of water before it trips. Consider replacing it with a new one. Is your bilge pump in the lowest possible spot? You will always get a little flow-back from the hose, but two inches of standing water isn’t good – It can rust out your keel bolts.
The packing gland on your prop shaft is a two nut set-up. Tighten it until the drops are less than one per minute. It should have the occasional drop when running (this is for lubrication & cooling). If the packing gland is hot to the touch after running you need to loosen it. Try this before you haul. If the nut is almost tightened to full stop, haul, undo the nut completely, remove what’s left of the old packing, clean and re-pack (I like Gor-tex packing and prefer to do is on the hard. Re-enacting your favorite scene from “Das Boot” isn’t for first-time packing gland re-packers).
You have a pretty boat. Take care of her and remember, it’s only money.