SailNet Community - View Single Post - new to me 1969 Cheoy Lee Offshore 27
View Single Post
post #14 of Old 06-20-2013 Thread Starter
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Re: new to me 1969 Cheoy Lee Offshore 27

Originally Posted by GeorgeB View Post
Agent9, you are approaching this in the right way. Too often, posters buying older boats are blind to the amount of deferred maintenance that needs to be addressed and the expenses involved with rigging, engines and sails.
I understand that point of view and did a lot of research before buying the boat, but just like many things I have learned more in the first three days of owning the boat then in several months of research. I think I have officially reach the end of my young and dumb years and onto my slightly more responsible years with a realization I am not invincible.

Originally Posted by GeorgeB View Post
As stated above, the best of all worlds is to have the rigger pull the stick. All the riggers I know will let you work on your stick while it is down and while they are making the new stays and shrouds. The downside is “mission creep” as you see that a lot of hardware is on the verge of needing replacing and how easy it would be to do some upgrades. I know, years ago I needed to replace a headstay and wound up stripping the sticks, painting them and replacing all sorts of hardware (and replacing the rest of the wire.) I recall that I overran that budget by 3X.

Without looking at your boat, I would say your cracked swages are headstay at the stem fitting and the bases of the cap shrouds and lowers. Your back stay has no crack. You have a low freeboard boat and the front is continuously getting doused in our Bay chop. Even with machined rolled swages, water got in and caused crevice corrosion. Sta-Lok and Norsman terminals by their construction will allow for more trapped water. Do you really want that maintenance item? Besides, your wire is pretty small (3/16, 7/32?) and easily machine swaged. I have taken the Biron Toss rigging class and re-wired one boat by myself. I won’t do that again. But if you are game I’d be happy to sell you a Loos Gauge.
That is my plan, I want someone who knows what they are doing rig it. Seems like one of those things that seems like a quick weekend project and 2 months later you are questioning why you did it yourself even more then you are questioning why you ever bought this damn boat.

Originally Posted by GeorgeB View Post
I know that Biron too, has finally come around to synthetic life lines, but I remain skeptical. The fibers attract grime (I have a synthetic gate on my sugar scoop). You have a single lifeline, again small diameter, get wire (I prefer uncoated). You will be buying new turnbuckles and fittings anyway which is probably a majority of the expense. Standing rigging wire is a different construction than your lifelines and not flexible. If you use it in a lifeline application, you will not be able to use your gates.
Good to know about the gates. I have never used them as is, and maybe not opposed to the idea of some less then ideal lifelines for the short term. Seems like a good way to delay a larger expense for a little while focusing on the more immediate issues.

[quote=GeorgeB;1046270]Your packing gland should look something like this: All you need to do is tighten it less than a turn to stop the constant drip. This is an owner job and done in the water. If it is a full stop and still leaking, then haul the boat and replace. I am a little concerned that your through-hulls are leaking. If they are leaking at the hoses, replace the hoses and hose clamps (probably fifty year old clamps anyways). You will want to double clamp all hoses below the waterline. I would work on stopping all the leaks. In the meanwhile, leave your battery charger plugged into shore power. A cycling pump will kill a group 24 or 27 battery in no time.

The marina claims to have tightened it as much as possible. I am going to double check it myself and see what happens. The through hull leak is really minor as I recall, and I believe it was on the sea-toilet, which I am not opposed to sealing from the outside since it is never used anyways. It is plugged in 24/7, I am definitely not depending on the battery to deal with it. Way too cautious of a person for that.

I will take some pictures of the through hull in question when I am out there tomorrow.

Originally Posted by GeorgeB View Post
As you can see from my signature, my boat is over in the east Bay and I am most familiar with those boat yards. Talk to your dock neighbors for recommendations about San Francisco Boat Works. Your boat is “classic plastic” and although you will never completely recover the money you spend in resale value, it will give you years of enjoyable service in the future.
It seems like the boat yard prices go down a bit in Berkeley / Alameda, and I am really not too far to motor over there, I motored from Sausalito to the SF Marina on my first day with the boat, and from the SF Marina to Oyster Point on my second, so Alameda seems like a nice little jaunt on a nice day. So I would love to know your opinion on the yards over there.

One thing I am remembering is that I do not recall seeing the clamps on my prop shaft, almost like it came through the fiberglass and straight into the stuffing box. I will take a picture tomorrow morning, I plan on checking on the boat then.

Thanks again for all the advice, really helpful and greatly appreciated.
agent9 is offline  
Quote Share with Facebook
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome