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Old 08-03-2013
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Re: Confused about which oil weight to use

Quote:
Originally Posted by DixeyJulie View Post
Thanks Smurphny,
Last week, I ran the motor in idle, in neutral for about 25 minutes, it had plenty of water flow in exhaust, Then, I thought it might be getting too hot,
So I reved it to 2500 for 15 seconds, then lowered RPM to idle in 5 seconds,
and shut it down. For some reason, the motor was very HOT, and it froze for about 2 hours. Since, I did not know it froze, I tried to start it after about 20 minutes after I shut it down, and It blew the starter aluminum cast shroud over the gear teeth into two pieces. Luckily, since this happened once before,
I had bought two, to have a spare, and replaced it. No aluminum cast pieces went into the flywheel cavities. But, does anyone know why it got so hot,
while running in idle?
Overheating to the point of seizing up is really bad. It's likely the cylinder walls have been scored already. You can't do this too many times until the engine is toast. If it will turn over again: 1. Change the oil and put in some Rotella straight 30 weight. Look at the old oil to see if it's milky which will mean water is getting into the oil somehow. This could cause the overheating. 2. Drain the anti freeze. (I would take the end cap off the heat exchanger to see if something is clogging it) If it's a standard raw water cooled engine ignore this. 3. Replace the thermostat or just take it out until you are sure you're getting coolant circulation. 4. Refill and start again but don't let it get that hot again.

Personally, I'd probably be pulling the head off after two seizings to check for cylinder damage before taking a chance running it again. This would also let you look at the water jackets to see if they are full of silt or something. The fact that water is running through the exhaust manifold doesn't necessarily mean enough water is running through the block.
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Last edited by smurphny; 08-03-2013 at 08:19 AM.
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DixeyJulie (08-04-2013)