Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
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First, if you have a cored deck and are drilling into the cored area... I would highly recommend that you pot each hole—drill it a bit oversized—usually 1/4" larger than the fastener requires, and then fill it with thickened epoxy and then re-drill for the fastener after the epoxy has set. This will help protect the core from water intrusion and may prevent a costly repair down the line. You should also be thru-bolting the toerail if at all possible. This way the load is spread out over more than just the threads of the screws... Fiberglass is a very poor medium for screws to hold in...it is too inelastic and brittle for them to hold well under any serious stress.
Second, you should be using the sealant under the whole toerail, rather than just the fasteners. You should also countersink the fastener holes slightly, to let the sealant form an o-ring around the screw or bolt. I wouldn't use 5200, since it is rather permanent, and if you have to make repairs to the toerail or surrounding area, it will make doing so much harder.
Since teak is a rather oily wood, I would go with a polysulfide sealant. 3M 101, BoatLIFE LifeCaulk, and BoatLIFE LifeCaulk Liquid are all good choices, with my preference being the 3M 101.
Hope this helps.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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