Originally Posted by Jolly Roger
Since Mikogold had a successful outcome from your advice, I would like to ask more of less the same questions in the hope someone could help with my problem. Here’s the story:
While changing the ½” water exhaust pipes to ¾” pipe to try to reduce the running temperature, I joined the raw water outlet from the heat exchanger to the exhaust pipe, without going through the anti siphon valve.
The result was a raw water drain back into the cylinders. I didn’t know this might happen, (I do now!), and the motor sat dormant for five weeks.
When I came to start it again it would not even turn over. I removed the injectors and the motor turned over, shooting a great stream of mucky water all over the head liner. There was also water in the oil, so I drained that.
I then did a compression test, #1 cylinder 85psi, #2 124psi, #3 185psi. None of this is high enough to cause combustion. I’m told the rings have seized up.
So I have now removed the head and there was water contamination in the exhaust, though still soft mush. I have cleaned that out and re-ground the valves.
I filled the cylinders with thin oil but after three days soaking I found I could not even turn the motor from the front pulley. The cylinders do not show any scoring.
Is there any way I can avoid lifting the block and removing the pistons and changing the rings? This is a heck of a job and means separating the generator section from the motor.
Any ideas please!
Unfortunately, I think it is time to get the chain hoist out
Maybe, if there is room, you could lay it on its side to unbolt the crank and drop the pistons out the bottom?, probably a band aid approach though. I would think the whole engine should come out and be taken apart for a thorough cleaning, at the very least
Probably new rings and honing in addition to a thorough flush. if there is any corrosion or rust on the crank journals a complete re-build may be the best thing to do.
"Separating the generator"?