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Old 10-29-2013
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Re: Embedded Chain plate maint/replacement

The chisel is as described, it has one side of the blade sharpened and the opposite side is flat section for pounding on - so it can cut sideways as well as down.
The serrated is to cut i.e. saw. It's a very heavy duty tool I use for taking things apart.
Dewalt makes it as you see it. This and a 1 inch wide thin blade cold chisel did most of the prying chopping, bending and such.

44Q
Quote:
After seeing the condition of the removed plate replacing chain plates has moved a bit down my priority list but when I do start the project it will be external plates bolted through the old ones. My only question is the number and diameter of bolts I should use? The plates are 3/8" x 2" x 24".
My rigger said "four bolts good, five bolts better", 1/2 inch SS with carriage style heads nicely polished.

Do NOT bolt through the old ones, seriously that makes no sense. You are going to pay premium bucks to put mirror finish plates (1000 or so a plate to get them nice) that have to be bent to the curve of the hull. That will mean chopping up both toe and cap rail also.
Then you are going to drill 5 holes blindly through the boat and at points up to 1/2 of stainless - the condition of which you do not know (after all there must be a problem or why install new plates).

Chop them out, fill and glass / putty smooth and install new plates at 250 each, no horizontal legs, just 2x24 with 5 bolts spaced to miss the rub rail. bolt through them. Cover the back with removable material or at least an access plate so you can inspect the nuts. Once every 10 years loosen it up and check the bolts/replace the butyl.
Oh, and put a weep hole in so that the inevitable leaking water has a place to go intentionally rather than rotting wood that is out of sight.

Just saying, these are nice boats, might as well do them right. I do not ever want to be the 'damn previous owner'.
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