The shaft removal was quite straight-forward.
The Gori prop threw me off for a bit. I was not expecting the nut to be inside the prop. I had to cut two tabs off of my gear puller so it would fit into the Gori prop, but after that it went well.
I also needed to cut two plumber's grub wrenches short, so I could undo the stuffing box nuts. But that worked out fine in the end and I now have proper tools for the job.
When I was researching the CS36T, I came across very few negatives, one was the engine access. I have to say - the CS is great to work on!
I have attached a picture of the notch I had to cut to get the shaft out. I saved the piece I cut out. I was able to separate the plywood block by hand and now it is just one layer of glass to make a cover for the notch. Once the shaft is reinstalled, I plan to make a very thick paste with West 410 and epoxy the piece back in. When I need to remove the shaft again, I should be able to cut the piece out with 5 minutes and a hacksaw.
I remembered where I read that I may need to align the shaft with a feeler gauge. It was in the Walter V-Drive service manual. I have a Hurth. But, I think the same will apply. I did see that there is a step in the prop shaft flange and that even when the bolts are snugged down, there is clearance between the the two flanges, which should allow me to check alignment.
Thanks again to all who read and contributed.