Unless you're a pro and really know what you are doing you can and will ruin AwlGrip if you buff it after it has fully cured. Many will tell you it can be done but it should ONLY be attempted if absolutely necesary.
When AwlGrip cures the solids and clear hard shine components migrate to the surface creating a very hard outer skin layer. Pictue the pigment sitting in the bottom of a glass and the clear LPU (Linear Polyester Urethane) floating to the surface like oil and water seperate. The problem with this skin of VERY hard material is that it is also VERY, VERY thin from .2 to .5 mills. If you buff it and happen to go through the skin, which you can't tell if you've done when buffing it, you will forever be a slave to it and NEED to keep wax on it to maintain a shine. I have done work with AwlGrip pre cure and even then while the stuff is curing it is not easy to work with. I advise NOT buffing AwlGrip and instead using their proprietary products.
Imron on the other hand can be buffed out with more ease than AwlGrip but again you need the right equipment and polishing pads. If your not sure the bottom line is DO NOT take compounds, polishes or waxes to Awlgrip other than the AwlGrip products!
-Maine Sail / CS-36T
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