Originally Posted by algee
Here is my problem ... 3) I think? all 17 pan bolts can be reached without removing the engine.
My question is, do you think, if I were to clean and sand the area of the leak 3 or 4 times and then use JB Weld on the area and maybe 3M 5200 after the JB Weld sets up, do you think it would work? ...
While you might be able to reach all the pan bolts, and maybe even remove them (without breaking one off
), you may very well find that you still won't be able to remove the pan with the engine in place. In fact, I'd be surprised if you could. Generally, boat engines are mounted as low as possible. And don't forget that the crank extends below the bottom of the block. You would probably have to disco the prop shaft, exhaust, etc,. unbolt the mounts and raise the engine severa inches to get the pan out.
The JB Weld (or other epoxy) solution is definitely the way to go first. As Sony said, forgtet the silicone, just use the JB. If that doesn't work, you'll have to find out how much clearance you really have.