Join Date: Dec 2010
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I have a full keel with a cutaway forefoot and when I "heave to" I tack and back wind the yankee, lock the wheel to steer upwind and adjust the main. No matter what I try I am close to being beam on to the wind whereas I want to be around 50 degrees from the wind. Because of the cutaway forefoot I can probably get closer to the wind with the main only with the rudder over hard and not worry about tacking through. I single hand a lot and heaving to is what I use when putting a reef in the main.
That's exactly my experience with 2 full keel cut away forefoot boats. They'll heave to perfectly with main and backed jib, riding broadside to wind and waves in the center of a big gently boiling slick formed by the hull siliding sideways, at about a knot, dead to leeward.
That works for fair weather heaving to and I use it often. A yawl is particularly handy for this lieing like a duck under sheeted mizzen alone(but the boat is broadside to wind/waves) It's how I often douse my main.
But when winds are in the 30's to 40 knots and seas could be a problem, I've found the only thing that will bring my bow up is to reduce or eliminate any headsail area. Then the boat may fore reach a bit, stall, heave-to, but the bow stays into the wind. The wheel is then the best way to adjust the boats ride.
I'll take hove-to as the best ride on my boat. But I would think there's a limit to the slicks effect to calm cresting seas and when they're breaking a bit over the boat, I want the bow more to windward than heaving-to achieves.
Tom Young sailing a 1961 38' Alden Challenger, CHRISTMAS out of
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