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Off-season Projects.

4K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  SailNet Archive 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok PSC Sailors,
All hands on Deck! "HA!"

Here is the completed list from this off-season to do list.
1. Clean, wax and buff the hull
2. Install loudhailer/forhorn on coachtop
3. Install Stereo/w/Bose speakers and shielded antenna wire
4. Install 40K btu hotwater furnace (install not for the faint of heart!)
5. Bench test (passed) and Install temp/water/gas alarm
6. Reair and wash sails
7. Install white/red LED lighting in v-berth
8. Provide a permanent lockout for the head thru hull. (USCG requirement for great lakes)
9. Add locker shelving.
10. Install 36" Forespar Track on mast for whisker pole
11. Route additional haylard for whisker pole
12. Attach Forespar Static Dissipator on the mast truck.
13. Replace refer thermostat
14. Replace Impeller (this was a big surprise...what a thoughtless yanmar design)
15. Clean both diesel fuel tanks. Renew gasget material. Test fuel sending units. Pass.
16. Replace deck wash down pump, reseal head sink basin with a rubber gasget instead of coupious ammounts of silicone that PSC does. The silicone makes for miserable removal of the sink basin which I needed to do to gain access for the wash down pump.
17. Flush and replace engine coolant
18. Bench test XM WxWorx for signal strength and compatability with Maptech on a Compaq laptop. Pass.
19. Replace port hauspipe cover
20. Work with canvas shop designing windlass cover and install
21. Insert plastic window in bimini
22. Measure and inspect ground tackle
23. Install red LED fixture above 110/12 volt distribution panel
24. Repalce broken barrell lock on LPG locker door
25. Repaint forward starboard engine mount
26. Replace B&G Depth Control Head
27. Refinish interior teak
28. Install Whisker Pole
29. Remove, wire wheel, lubricate, and reinstall rudder gudgeon
30. Install XM Weather Radio Antenna on coachtop
31. Replace 2 broken cabinet door pulls.
32. Identify and label direction of flow for all rubber hoses over 1/2" aboard.
33. Redo external brightwork with Sikkens Cetol.
34. Rebuild teak frame and replace scratched lexan protecting cockpit instrument engine control panel.
35. Attach Forespar steaming/deck light stainless guard to mast.
36. Attach Forespar whisker pole chock to mast.
37. Fit whisker pole to mast using chock, car on adjustable track, and haylard
38. Apply for MMSI number for the DSC VHF
39. Replace house gel cell battery. Original failed after 3 months of heavy use. Waranty covered.
40. Bottom Paint
41. Add 2 quick connect 12 volt connections to the inside helm.
42. Order new B&G Mast Truck wind sensor
43. Install WxWorx receiver at inside helm
44. Replace mainsail reef lines
45. Restock supplies

Vessel has been launched and now it's time to enjoy the sailing season. We're homeward bound like a homesick angel.

How about anyone else? What have you done this season to your PSC's?

Below is the Heatercraft Furnace that sits under the quarterberth inside of the pilothouse.



Below are the 2-2way valves that control the direction of flow from either the engine to the heater heat exchanger or to the potable hot water heater heat exchanager. Because they are ball valves they can be set to flow to both at the same time if desired.



Below the hull getting some attention



Below the radio install below the inside helm



Below is the thru hull head discharge lockout



Whisker Pole attached to Mast

 
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6
#2 ·
Off Season To Do List

Okay Rick - you have me beat by a long shot:

1. Refinish All External Teak with Epifanes Varnish (removing exiting Cetol)
2. Measure & Order a Tops In Quality midships boarding ladder
3. Obsess over Trinka and Whitehall Spirits, only to buy the much more practical Zodiac FR285 Inflatable with 6HP Tohatsu OB
4. Wire up an "off season" battery charging station at the house - I like to take my AGMs off the boat during the long winter storage season here in Chicagoland
5. Lube Maxprop, replace zinc
6. Replace aging Main Halyard

Launcing in less than a week :D

Regarding your #8, I hear Michigan DNR is very strict about yvalves and that zip-tying is not enough - that I must swap out the y valve with an elbow - true?
 
#3 ·
Ted,
Cool to do list. Well done Skipper!

#2 I have always envied the side boarding ladders as they keep those little toes away from the prop. They look so good!

#5 Where is the zinc located at?

To answer your question about what I have learned about overboard untreated effluent in the great lakes. "It depends who you talk to." Remind you of other Government Agencies?

What I choose to do was to disable the thru hull with a lock and key on the discharge ball valve located under the head sink. That valve blocks the macerator or the head from flowing to the sea. It shows that I am in compliance and would vigerously defend my position to any inspecting US agency. I do not believe that I would ever have to be concerned about it.

Now, Canadian waters is a whole different issue. But I don't sail there due entirely to their assine laws regarding my personal protection concerning firearms. But if I was to sail there, I probably should remove the two hoses to the thru hull discharge ball valve entirely.

<begin rant>IMHO, this whole discharge thing is such a crock...oops, bad choice of words. It's good that we do not discharge in the Great Lakes...bravo for that and I support that. But what about countless muninciplaities that dump thousands of gallons whenever it rains hard? Rain? They can't design these systems for rain? Throw those polluting bastards next to Jimmy Baker where they belong. Such a precious comodity that we sail upon, such a responsibility for us for future generations. <rant ended>
 
#4 ·
Rick, in the "Gung Ho! Zero Tolerance! Kill the Boaters!" days the USCG did indeed go nuts about "secured" discharges. I think it has been a good five years since one of the Commandants finally issued an edict telling his people that "secured" means "secured" and that straps, locks, tie-wraps, armed guards (always keep a spare eunich to secure the for'd harem, right?) all fulfill the requirement of "secured".

We were going to install a simple key lock on the macerator power line so that it could be physically locked out and secured, but then realized while rewiring the boat that by putting the macerator on a fuse instead of a breaker, we could "secure" it by simply keeping the fuse in a drawer.

KISS principle, right?<G?>
 
#5 ·
Rick:
Thanks for the tips on MI DNR.

re: your question on the Zinc - it's on the prop. Click here.

I'm not looking forward to the impeller swap out based on all the comments here on this board.

Did I mention, I'm launching in less than a week. :D
 
#6 · (Edited)
Ted,
On the 3jh2e it's called 3 fingers one handed blind. With the engine on the PH installed between two fuel tanks puts an interesting twist to refitting the impeller as there is no port side access. Your setup is quite possibly easier?
The Michigan DNR has never boarded, but the USCG has. They checked everything.

Have you ever greased the bottom of your rudder? The PS Owners manual calls for waterproof axle grease. I beleive that its called the gudgeon?
Rick

Hellosailor,
Does your macerator route to the same thru hull discharge valve so that you have 2 hoses connected to one valve? Or is it routed differently?

Yeah, one fine summer afternoon when Fat Jack was still the harbour master at Northport a 40 something sliped next to us. I just happened to look down at the beautiful blue water and saw all of this shreaded tp and whatever else go pumping out of the side thru a discharge valve. This groupe was incredibly greasy looking and I told them that there were restrooms at the marina. The last time that I saw documentation about illegal dumping it was up to $100,000 per incident. I mentioned it to Fat Jack and he said that it was only the Carp spawning. I left it alone after that. That kept it simple. <g>
Rick
 
#7 ·
Preseason projects

For some reason I never check this Board, just the mail message board provided by sailnet. I suppose I should check here more often. This year I had the normal projects of clean, wax, clean teak, varnish(Bristol), winch maintenance, etc. But I also installed a new Raymarine E80, Sirius SR100 weather receiver, and MOB Lifetag system. I am happy with the electronics and the integration. I have been out daysailing a couple of times since I finished but I don't have a long trip planned until later this month.

Larry
ASYLUM
PSC 31
 
#8 ·
I just hooked up the WxWorx for a trial run on any connectivity issues on the laptop with Maptech running. I am not going to start the monthly bill for WxWorx untill June but it looks like everything is compatable so I can go ahead with the mounting of the XM Antenna on the coachtop. The weather receivers are nice and I hope that it aids in saftey and trip planning, and not just another on board electronic gizmo. Is Sirius and XM still discussing a merger?
 
#9 ·
Rick, the merger is still on the table. The problem is that it would be illegal under the terms of their FCC licenses, so you can expect that it will need a special sanction by the FCC, plus possibly approval from the SEC (because of monopoly issues) and the FTC (again).

Those kind of merger approvals usually take 6-12 months and you can't get a bookie to take odds on whether any of the agencies will approve it. Odds are the FCC will approve it, simply because they could arrange to "take back" one of the frequency allocations and sell it off again, and the FCC is very busy selling allocations to help pretend the federal budget is balanced.
 
#12 ·
hellosailor,

Included in the kit,
1. Marine XM Weather Antenna/w/50 feet of cable.
2. Base unit
3. Mounting bracket for the base unit
4. Auto XM antenna with magnetic base.
5. USB cable for laptop connection
6. 12 volt power adaptor
7. Software
8. Delphi XM radio receiver
8. free activation for XM Weather and Radio
9. free first month for XM Weather and Radio
10. free annual deactivation, free activation next year
 
#13 ·
arisatx said:
Rick:
Thanks for the tips on MI DNR.

re: your question on the Zinc - it's on the prop. Click here.

I'm not looking forward to the impeller swap out based on all the comments here on this board.

Did I mention, I'm launching in less than a week. :D
Ted,
I found the anode. It's on page 360 of the west marine 2007 catalog. We don't have the same prop, yours has gears, is adjustable and feathers? Mine just drags along for the ride.
Rick
 
#15 ·
Ted,
I ordered zinc #cmpnzd based on the 1.25" dia prop shaft that this PS32PH uses. I'm also missing the bolt that holds the anode to the prop nut and it appears to be a 5/16 x 18? We are in fresh water and not nearly the concern like the saltys have, but it will protect the brass prop from electrolitic corrosion. I took off the godgeon today and have the rudder supported by a floor jack. I'm going to wire wheel all of the undercoating off of it from the po, grease it up and reinstall it. After taking a mirror and looking up the rudder tube I see a cement type bedding inside of the pipe but it doesn't fill it up from side to side. I have no idea why that would be in there and as far as I can tell looks like it has something to do with the rudder sticking to it and not with sealing off the tube from water, which it wouldn't be able to do the way that it is. That tube has got to be drilled in numerous spots with some sort of a steel reinforcement going into the rudder and perpendicular to the tube, right? The rudder pipe or tube sticks about 1.125" out of the bottom of the rudder and the receiving gudgeon brass bushing is approx 1.375 deep. Both the pipe inside of the rudder and the bushing have seats that are the main contact point. No wear noticed after polishing and of the surfaces. The bushing in the gudgeon has about a .25" hole in the bottom of it, a little small for zebra musscels, I hope. Next year I'm going to shove grease into that bushing hole and call it good. It appears that the gudgeon, bolts and nuts were well sealed from water and I plan to reseal them at least as good.
Rick
 
#16 ·
3Jh2e Yanmar

arisatx said:
Rick:

I'm not looking forward to the impeller swap out based on all the comments here on this board.
The impeller is about 6 inches below the space between the alternator and the heat exchanger and the cover for it faces aft. That is why the alternator has to be removed for access to the impeller replacement on this vessel.

 
#18 ·
hellosailor said:
Rick, that elbow hose above the alternator looks like it was factory painted--and is now already cracked and ready to replace.

Don't tell me...they hired the alleged engineering team from WesterBleeech ?!
Hellosailer,

If you look at the alt belt you see the same thing as the hose; cracked paint. It sure makes a mess in the engine compartment.

 
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