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Old 07-18-2007
SanderO SanderO is offline
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Sailingdog,

My experience with anchoring... and the technique I have developed has come from living aboard for 4 yrs and cruising on my boat in the Caribbean, and in New England for 21.

My snubbing line is actually 1" nylon braid and I do have a 30" length of tygon plastic tubing which I can slide to mitigate chafe. But usually there is no chafing points.

My windlass is a Maxwell 1100c vertical (about 1,200# pull) and the snubber line is led around it and the angle is hardly enough to stress or bend the windlass. I would estimate the angle is something like 210°. I don't have to lead it this way, but when I do retrieve the tackle with the snubber using the windlass it is easier.

Of course the snubber line, the rubber compensator, the chain all have to be sized for the vessel and it also depends on the number of wraps you take around the rubber.

My vessel displacement is 16,000 and I use a compensator for 24mm line and boats up to 20 meters. The EDPM rubber is very stout and unaffected by UV.

Other yachts use a rather short length of line which may absorb some shock, but nothing like the rubber compensator which I can see stretch at times to perhaps 1.5x its length.

If it does "snap" the thick nylon line is still there as shock absorber and the jerk would not be very much, certainly not enough to do damage of part the chain I would think. I have never been there so I don't know.

I set my anchor from the bow, not from the cockpit backing down with the motor. I let the wind push the boat back, lay out the chain and then the flukes dig in. When they do the CL of the boat will align with the chain and if the wind is strong enough it will lift the catanary.

I then set the mooring snubber with the captive compensator and let out about her 15'+ foot of chain. The chain aft of the chain hook drops down in the water and the line takes the load. If the wind is strong enough the compensator will untwist a bit indicating that there is considerable tension in the rode. The catanary and the rubber are now absorbing the shock. I experience not jolts with this system. This system can easily hand tension from 50 knots according to the component specs.

If I want to use MORE nylon line I can, by slipping the line on the cleat up to 40'. If the windlass has problems or the anchor is stuck, the snubber line has a float attached at the bitter end so I can drop/ release the chain and it will have a float on it for retrieval later.

I often put a float on the anchor as well.

In more than 16 yrs using this very system I have dragged but once or twice and I think the anchor was fouled in eel grass. The CQR doesn't like eel grass.

My "permanent" mooring system uses a large bow eye (5/8" Ř ss) which is attached through a very stout SS stem fitting on the boat. My mooring painter is not a loop, but a huge Wichard 4,000# rated ss snap hook carabine. There is no possibility for chafe. I have a typical loose 1" - 3 strand mooring painter with a loop on the bow cleat as a back up. This painter takes no tension under normal conditions and serves as a "safety" line back up.

And suggestions or comments?

jef
sv shiva
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