If you remove the standing rigging from the mast, make sure that you clearly mark it all properly, so that you can put it back where it came from. Probably, the best thing to do would be to remove each piece of rigging after labeling it very carefully—by removing the clevis pin at each end—leaving the turnbuckles alone. Then coil it up carefully, and put all the hardware associated with it in a ziplock baggie, cable tie the baggie to the rigging and the rigging into a nice, neat coil. Store flat—so it doesn't get kinked.
I would also mark each of the turn buckles, to indicate where they are currently adjusted to, unless you want to pay a rigger to set the mast back up for you. If the turnbuckles get turned during the shipping and aren't restored to their original positions, the tension on the rig will be affected.
Most spreaders are relatively easy to remove, needing only a wrench and a screwdriver. I'd carry one of the bit-driver kits, so that if you have an odd setup that requires a torx or allen head, you will have it.
A minimal tool kit will include screwdrivers—flat and phillips; adjustable wrench; box end wrenches—metric and imperial since they're often mixed on a boat; needle nose pliers—good for the cotter pins; vise grips; hammer and rubber mallet; WD40; plastic ziploc baggies and cable ties—to organize and hold parts; digital camera, notebook and pencil—to document what you do; Sharpie permanent markers in as many colors as possible—to help identify different parts; flashlight and rigging knife—just useful to have; butane lighter—good for heat sealing cut rope ends.
Don't forget to run messenger lines for the halyards, if you're going to be removing the running rigging. I like using 1.8-3 mm spectra line for the messenger lines. It's tough and light and usually very brightly colored.
As for your lazy jacks. There should be several padeyes along the bottom of the boom and either a padeye or block on each side of the mast for the lazy jacks. There should be several pairs of lines and usually stainless steel rings to use as connectors. The longest line goes up the mast to the padeye/block, and then down to a stainless steel ring on each side. Usually, a line will go from the front-most padeye through the ring to another stainless steel ring—if you have more than one short line per side—or to the back to the boom. If you only have one line per side... you're done. If you have a second line, run it from the next aft-most padeye through the stainless steel ring on the end of the previous line and to either next aft-most padeye on the boom—if there are no more lines—or to a stainless steel ring. If there is a third line... un it from the next aftmost padeye through the stainless steel ring on the end of the previous line and to aft-most padeye on the boom. There usually aren't more than three short lines. The shorter lines may be of different lengths, and you may need to play around a bit to figure out which one is first, second and third... but this should get you started on the right path I think.
The setup will look something like this when you're done:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.