If you go with a through-hull type transducer, you really need to pot the hole for the transducer and the fastener holes. It is probably a bit less work than trying to install a through-the-hull, interior mount transducer in a balsa cored hull—since you would have to cut the inner laminate skin, remove the core and then grind out the laminate and build it back back to a thickness of solid fiberglass that is strong enough to withstand the forces on the hull, and then install the transducer. The extent of the repair to the hull's interior is probably a good deal more involved than the just potting a through-hull and fastener holes.
I'm not a big fan of transom mount transducers, since they still require a hole through the hull for the wiring, or a really long wiring run, and are far more vulnerable to damage. Also, having a transom mounted transducer means that you'll have no warning of sudden shoaling and if you're not paying attention, have a much greater chance of going aground.
With it mounted a bit forward in the hull, you can often get a bit of warning and avoid a grounding by changing course or backing.
My boat is a Merit 25... balsa cored.
So you think it's better to install a thru hull transducer to avoid a possible mess with the core? To me is somehow the same, I mean, with a thur hull you make a hole in the boat, with a shoot thru, you only digg from the inside to the outer layer.
I was thinking to epoxy the transducer and then fill the gaps with polyester resin to make sure there are no ways into the balsa.
Perhaps it would be easier to try the transom mount and find a spot where the thing gets wet always (underwater)
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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