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Old 06-22-2014
mainesail mainesail is offline
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Re: Bristol 26 parts

HI, RESPONSES IN CAPS

Ok thanks. It probably isn't the first choice but I'm already too far involved to go back now lol. I HEAR YOU, SAIL WHAT YOU'VE GOT IS A PRETTY GOOD POLICY AND I REALLY APPLAUDE THAT

My first and primary concern is getting from Washington to California. I would like to take my time and cruise this fall between San Francisco and San Diego. MY PRIMARY CONCERN WOULD BE LACK OF ABUNDANCE PORTS OF REFUGE TO SCAMPER INTO AND WEATHER-I WOULD START NOW, IF YOU'RE NOT UP ON WEATHER FORECASTING, TO START LEARNING AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE AND ALSO GET NOAA AND OTHER FORECASTS DAILY AND LEARN THE PATTERNS ETC. I, FRANKLY HAVEN'T SAILED THE LEFT COAST MUCH, MY HAVE HEARD AND READ ENOUGH THAT I KNOW CAUTION IS THE WATCHWORD. At that point, assuming I make it that far I will make the decision to stay in central or Southern California for a while or go south or west.

Any advice you have and knowledge of these boats will be of help. Besides big projects, my short list is:

All hatches and lazarettes have very secure latches SECURITY IS GOOD. IF YOU'VE GOT A FACTORY HATCH OF LIGHT FG, I'D REPLACE IT OR INSTALL A GASKETED STORM HATCH OF 3/4" PLY WITH A COUPLE OF STRONG-BACKS BOLTED FROM BELOW. NO MATTER WHAT, IT MUST, MUST BE WATERPROOF. BLAST IT WITH A HOSE AT ALL ANGLES, BETTER A PRESSURE WASHER, TO SEE THE RESULTS. SAME WITH LAZARETTE. MUST BE GASKETED AND WATER PROOF UNDER PRESSURE. IF THE SEAS FILL THE COCKPIT AND GUESS WHERE THE WATER WILL GO. SAME WITH THE COMPANIONWAY BOARDS. SECURE THEM ALL WITH TIE-DOWN LINES BELOW OR WITH SLIDE-BOLTS OR REPLACE WITH SOLID PLY FOR SEA PASSAGES. THE MAHOGANY FRAME FOR THE BOARDS IS PRETTY WIMPY-REPLACE WITH SS OR 3/4" MAHOGANY BOLTED THROUGH BOTH FACES

Making a way to secure my hause(sp?) pipe for my anchor. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE AN ANCHOR ON THE BOW, UNLESS INCREDIBLE WELL SECURED-EVEN THEN IT'S VERY INVITING MEAL TO HEAVY SEAS. pUT ALL THAT BELOW AND WELL SECURED-LOW AND AMIDSHIPS IS BEST-WEIGHT OUT OF THE ENDS. SEAL YOUR DECKPIPES AND OTHER PENETRATIONS-CARVE A PLUG, USE PUTTY, WHAT VER-BUT SEAL THEM VERY WELL

Installing bow roller and anchor. LOOK AROUND ONLINE- LOTS OF METHODS-NO MATTER WHAT, I PREFER ON A PAD OF STARBOARD OR SIMILAR AND USE SS PLATE AND STARBOARD OR OTHER FOR VERY BEEFY BACKING PLATE BELOW DECK-USE SS 316 HARDWARE. MANY PRE-MADE ROLLERS ARE KINDS WIMPY- IF YOU FAB YOUR OWN-CUT AND FINISH AND THENGET WELDER AT A SHOP-YOU CAN GET A RALLY GOOD UNIT AT REASONABLE COST. MAY WELL LOOK AT HEAVIER CLEATS AND OR BITS AS WELL

Heres a big one. I need a turtle box or some contraption to prevent water getting in my main hatch. YES A SEA HOOD OR TURTLE IS ESSENTIAL-YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN, I THINK GOOD OLD BOAT HAS HAD ARTICLES-ALSO WEST SYSTEMS EPOXYWORKS MAGAZINE- ON-LINE AT GOUGEON BROS. LOTS OF ON-LINE INFO. MAKE WITH FG OR PLY.

A latch for my bottom companionway ...um... Plexiglass board thing YOU CAN MAKE A DROP BOARD OUT OF PLASTIC-USE POLYCARBONATE NOT ACRYLIC-POLYCARB IS MUCH TOUGHER- BUT SCRATCHES MORE EASILY. NOT CHEAP-I WOULD USE AT LEAST 1/2" BETTER 5/8"-3/4". MACHINE WITH FINE TOOTH WOOD TOOLS TO FIT BOARDS. BOARDS SHOULD MEET WITH A HALF LAP, NOT THE SHALLOW BEVEL THAT IS TOO COMMON. GET OUT THE PRESSURE WASHER AGAIN-HEY THIS IS ALOT OF FUN :-) PROBABLY A SLIDE BOLT OF SS IS BEST SECURITY. MAKE SURE WHERE THE BOLT LANDS IS STOUT.

Adding second reef line system. Probably not single line like my first reef point.
I'M A VERY BIG FAN OF JIFFY REEFING. YOU SHOULD HAVE AT LEAST TWO AND PREFERABLE THREE REEFS AND REALLY A STORM TRYSAIL WHICH IS BEST PRE MOUNTED ON A SEPARATE TRACK TO SIDE OF MAIN TRACK/SLOT SO IT CAN BE LOADED AND IN THE BAG AWAITING TH NEED. LOTS ON-LINE. YOU SHOULD HAVE REEFING POINTS AS WELL AS CRINGLES FOR THE REEF LINES- A BAG FULL OF WATER AT THE BOOM IS NOT FUN.
I ALSO AMA BIG FAN OF LAZYJACKS WHICH CAN BE BROUGHT BACK TO THE MAST UNDER SAIL.

Contemplating my engine locker. I'M ASSUMING THAT.YOU HAVE AN OB AS I DID-CONSIDER PULLING THE MOTER AT SEA- WEIGHT OUT OF THE END AND LESS INTRUSION OF THE MOTOR BY SEAS- BUT WHERE TO PUT IT, i THINK THE LAZARETTE CONNECTS TO THE BILGE-CAN'T REMEMBER-GOTTA MAKE IT 100% INTRUSION PROOF.

Are there any weak pints you can think of? The rudder maybe but I'm not sure what I could do about that. I DIDN'T HAVE ANY RUDDER ISSUES-MOVE IN EVERY WAY POSSIBLE-LOOK FOR SLOP-HAVE HELP IS BEST-SOMETIMES IT'S BEST JUST TO DROP IT AND LOOK CLOSELY.
ALSO-LOOK AT YOUR KEEL CLOSELY-BALLAST IS ENCAPSULATED-MAKE SURE IT'S TIGHT. ALWAYS USE EPOXY NOT POLYESTER FOR REPAIRS.

I WOULD GO THROUGH THE RIG COMPLETELY FROM CHAIN PLATES TO MASTHEAD. DECKS OFTEN LEAK WHERE CHAIN-PLATE EXITS- I WOULD PULL THEM TO INSPECT AND DEAL WITH ANT DECK SOFTNESS.LOOK AT THE RIGGING VERY CLOSELY (MAGNIFYING GLASS IS NOT OUT OF ORDER). IF THERE I any ROUGING (RUST LOOK) AT ALL-REPLACE-SAME IF ANY-EVEN 1 MEATHOOK. CHECK CLOSELY ALL SWAGE FITTINGS-IF DISTORTED REPLACE STAY. IF THE BUDGET ALLOWS REPLACE ALL STANDING RIGGING UNLESS YOU KNOW IT'S LESS THAN 10 YEARS OLD ANDI WOULD GO UP IN SIZE 1/32. IT WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA TO AT LEAST HAVE A LENGTH OF WIRE THE LENGTH OF THE BACKSTAY AN SOME NORSEMAN/STALOK FITTINGS SO YOU CAN REPLACE A FAILURE AT SEA (HOPEFULLY YOUR MAST STILL STANDS).

TAKE APART AND SERVICE ALL TURNBUCKLES, WINCHES ETC, GO THROUGH MAST WIRING AND CONSIDER REPLACEMENT-AS WELL WITH NAV LIGHTING ETC.

So, that's the short list. Fair Winds, Will
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