Most stereos that require a memory or clock maintenance lead, will have a separate lead with a very small, usually 1 amp, fuse for it. This should be connected directly to the battery for the reasons stated above... but the radio's power lead, with a much larger fuse, should be switched and overload protected in some way.
As for bonding... bonding them to each other can be a good sign, but it often isn't necessary or wise to do so. Galvanically isolated metal throughhulls may not benefit from bonding. It really depends on the specific boat setup.
BTW, the copper on those bars looks like it is starting to corrode. I am willing to bet if you were to put the leads off an ohmmeter on them, it would register some resistance, rather than pure short due to the oxidation on the surface.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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