Join Date: Dec 2002
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Boy oh boy! I must have gotten it all wrong. Here I''ve been an ASE Certified Master automotive electrician for over 30 years and had no idea that a boat could be so much more complicated. I was even and electrical apprentice for two years and worked for H.K Porter building high voltage power substation transformers with delta three phase configurations and multi voltage taps. With all that i still never saw anything like this.
You can go nuts if you want to, as for me I keep it simple.
Here''s some experience for ya.
High priced boat battery charges that claim to be fully automatic will still boil your batteries dry.
High priced replacement alternators are made the same as cheap ones. I earned a good living fixing new state of the art alternators. external regulators are no more reliable than internal ones and need more wiring.
Your talking about an old small sailboat not a 50 foot world cruiser.
If you want to spare your boat from being eat-up with electrolisis. Don''t connect the green wire to your dock plug or in your power panel. Never bond anything 12v to anything 110a/c and viseversa.
I''d use an extension cord thru the anchor line hole and a 10 amp automatic charger from Wal-mart. 16ga lamp cord will last at least 10 years. 4 30amp-glass fuse holder to split anchor light and running lights and any other 12 volt applications from a cigarlighter socket inside and a 45 amp marine alternator the cheaper the better because price doesn''t gaurantee reliabillity or longevity.
Oh yes! When ever possible, solder your terminal ends. Otherwise use lineman crimpers not the cheap solderless crimping tools that allow the wire to slip out. Never use wire nuts(Fire nuts).