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post #9 of Old 04-16-2008
Maine Sail
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The buffer..

The buffer and pad work as a system. Most Ryobi buffers I have seen are of the Wal*Mart style, use terry cloth buffing pads and basically SUCK. If this is what you own PLEASE do not base you results of buffing on this product.

Don't get me wrong, I own Ryobi tools, and love them for their price point and relative durability. The buffer however is something I would re-gift if someone gave me one..

Comparing the Ryobi 10" buffer to the Makita 9227C, or the equivalent Porter Cable, Milwaukee or Hitachi, is like pitting Rosie O'Donnell against Magic Johnson in a one on one game of basket ball...

I've used Poli-Glow and it has some characteristics that have led me to not use it again..

Once the hull is buffed, polished and waxed the next season is only a polish and wax that won't take that much more time than prepping and applying Poli-Glow. I can polish and hand wax (two step) my 36 footer in about 6 hours.

This is what can happen to miracle coatings.. That blotchyness is not a reflection it's a worn, yellowing and peeling acrylic "wonder coating"...

This was my old 1986 C-36. I did a four step wet sand, compound, polish & wax. It looked a lot like Barry's boat above when I started.

P.S. Barry if the compound was hard to get off you "burned" it. Think of compounds and polishes like wet sanding. It should remain wet to work! The advice above of 3200 RPM's is not a wise idea. The speed I use most on my Makita is between 600 and 800 RPM's I never burn my compound and it always comes off easily....

I'll post more on the subject later:

-Maine Sail / CS-36T

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 04-16-2008 at 09:12 PM.
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