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post #13 of Old 05-09-2008 Thread Starter
Maine Sail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEMIJim View Post
Btw: I have yet to meet a sailor to whom I related that who wasn't surprised to hear this.
Me too!! That's why I posted this. Sure, Awlgrip will remain shiny for long periods, with very little maintenance, BUT, if you keep your boat at a dock fender chafe through is VERY common and the only alternative is to repaint the surface or at the least clear coat it with clear LPU.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SEMIJim View Post
What about Imron or Awlcraft 2000 vs. Awlgrip for touch-up (scratches, gouges, other damage): Which is easiest or works best?

Jim
Imron and Awlcraft 2000 are very, very similar. They are both acrylic LPU's and as such the shine/pigment is the entire thickness of the finish and as such it can be buffed and repaired. They are slightly less durable but still very, very resilient compared to other paints..

This photos bellow are a 1989 fire engine red (most fade prone color) Imron finish that I re-conditioned last spring. I challenge anyone to show me an Awlgrip or other polyester LPU finish that still looks that good at 18 years old!!!

You can't do that with the polyester LPU's like Awlgrip, Sterling or AlexSeal. When polyester LPU's are done, they are done, and when acrylic LPU's (Imron/Awlcraft 2000) are looking bad they are not necessarily done and can usually be re-buffed an re-conditioned but you must know what you are doing!!

P.S. For my own boat I used Awlcraft 2000 but Imron is basically the basically the same stuff... I still prefer a gelcoat finish over paint though..



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-Maine Sail / CS-36T


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Last edited by Maine Sail; 05-09-2008 at 10:13 AM.
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