Originally Posted by brak
Well, one day when I am done with other projects - I can deal with heat shrinking on these terminals
Boeshield is good - I spray my engine with it.
Here, btw is the crimping tool I use - it's not as precise but works great:
makes for an easy job crimping anything from 16 gauge to 2.
Brak that is "one size fits all" a dimple crimper and as such should be used to crimp un-insulated terminals. Some will say "insulated and non-insulated" but dimple crimpers do not make the same crimp on insulated terminals as a double crimper or a crimper designed for heat shrink terminals. Also a good quality crimper will have jaws to fit the three colors of insulated terminals Yellow, Blue and Red.
Precision machined jaws will not rip expensive heat shrink terminals:
Dimple crimpers will:
I made a crimp with my Klein crimper/strippers and one with a my Ancor Products "Single Crimp Ratcheting Crimper". I then cut the crimped terminals open with my Dremel tool and took a peak.
The crimp on the left was made with my Anchor Ratcheting crimper which is a very decent quality crimper and the crimp on the right was made with my Klein "dimple crimper" a very mediocre crimper but also the type most boat owners use to make crimped connections.
I now understand why many boaters think "air" can get into a crimp and corrode it. If you look at he crimp on the right, made with the "cheap" crimper, you can still see strands of copper wire. The crimp on the left is far superior and has in fact "cold formed" (wire and crimp have become one), similar to what happens when you swage standing rigging. I think the photo speaks for its self. A well built crimping tool is well worth the money!
-Maine Sail / CS-36T
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Last edited by Maine Sail; 06-03-2008 at 10:49 AM.