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Old 10-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drlove View Post
Yes, the pad I am using is the 05711. I have not burned anything with this pad but I did not have good results with a foam pad but I was using faster rpms and was completely buffing away the compound.
See this is tricky stuff. If you are buffing it till it's dry you are "burning" or "loading" the pad! It should remain "wet" and as soon as it starts to grip at or bite the surface you should mist or add more compound. SLOW speeds will keep the compound wetter longer fast speeds dry it out and you'll use much more product than is necessary trying to keep it wet. Again if you're a pro and want to employ years and years of dry buffing experience go for it if not go SLOW..


Quote:
Originally Posted by drlove View Post
I feel comfortable with the wool pad at any rpm but will need to slow it down with foam and use more compound.
Don't get overly confident!! There is NO difference between wool and foam in terms of speed. A foam pad can load just as easily as a wool pad. Make sure your pads are damp to begin with including the foam pad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drlove View Post
Okay, here's where I'm at. I have already sanded and compounded one side of the boat. Are you saying I should compound it again with Super Duty or can I go on to polishing?
If the shine is good, most builders, Catalina & Hunter to name a few, stop at a compound equal to 3M Super Duty. Even their brand new boats are LOADED with swirl marks. It will and should look quite shiny before you move onto Finesse IT II. If it does don't re-do it with a compound just go to polish.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drlove View Post
Do you use the mist bottle of water with the polish as well?
There is no difference in the way a polish is applied other than the aggressiveness of the pad. It is still nothing more than particles of suspended grit, just at a finer grade than a compound. You still need to lube the product, and keep it wet, for the best results. The only difference between a "body shop safe" polish and a BSS compound is the grit level.

P600 wet sand paper is used the same exact way as P1500. The only difference is in the shine produced..

Quote:
Originally Posted by drlove View Post
As far as I know, I can't get Collinite around here unless I order it and then I have to wait for delivery (I haven't called all of the paint places in Tulsa so I may be able to find some).
Call Collinite and ask if they have any distributors in your area. it will save you dialing the whole phone book. When you call them you'll likely get Mike Taylor he is the owner of the company. Their number is 315-732-2282.

You can also buy it at Auto-Geek.com.


Quote:
Originally Posted by drlove View Post
How long after compounding and polishing can I wait to put wax on?
There is no need to wait.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drlove View Post
I can get the Super Duty and Finesse-it readily. West Marine has the Tre-Wax you mentioned in the detailed instructions. If I can't get Collinite which of the Tre-Wax vs Meguiars #16 would you recommend?
I think the Tre-Wax and the #16 are comparable but the Collinite seems to last longer in the marine environment. None the less Tre-Wax is good stuff. West Marine stocks Collinite #885 and should be able to order it in on the next truck for you..

Quote:
Originally Posted by drlove View Post
I will take the NXT back tomorrow
Yep my can is collecting some serious dust!
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