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Thanks to all for the replies. We just got back from St. John, where we spent a week in a little house on the side of a mountain just up from Coral Bay. The far end of St. John is most definitely not like Miami Beach; in fact it was fantastically remote and simple -- quite unlike St. Thomas. The snorkeling was great, the people were fun, and we did get a little time out on the water. It's easy to find a day trip out of Coral Bay, and the rentals at Cinnamon Bay are fine.
For next time we'd go to the BVI and do a sailing school for sure. There were tons of charter boats in the bays around St. John and we were definitely envious watching the folks swim off them in to the beach.
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