Quote:
Originally Posted by merc2dogs
To support them I normally use one of two techniques
Either make a rack to stack them on out of scrap wood with long drywall screws or brads driven through the rack so you can set the part on the points of the screws, normally on the rabbets on boards, or the parts that are covered in mounting.
Doing it that way you have three (or four) tiny little pinhead spots that should be invisible when you're done, and if you're concerned with them you can hit each spot with an artists brush when everything else is done.
Other method is to drill small holes on 'invisible' sides and stick brads in the holes, then tie string to them and hang them from the rafters so they hang visible side up.
My coaming boards have two small holes in them where I used wood screws to hang them.
If you have screw holes etc, use those holes to hang the part.
Normally I have as many scraps of plywood with screws driven through them as I have parts to varnish.
For me old brushes seem to work best, new brushes always seem to have loose bristles they shed in your nice new varnish. And I just can't seem to get a decent finish with foam brushes.
Good varnish, and good brushes combined with carefull prep is the key.
Ken. |
Great advice. If you are sanding after the required drying time and find that your sandpaper is loading up badly, then either your miscalculating the cure time or you are using poor quality sandpaper. Wet sanding makes the job a lot easier, and applying some heat with a hair dryer for a couple of minutes will speed curing. Use a good quality automotive sandpaper.
Ideally, if you have the equipment, i'd hang the pieces and spray them, rather than brushing. even a cheap hobbyist air-in-a-can airbrush will make the job a lot faster and easier.