Originally Posted by camaraderie
FinesseItII works just fine when applied by hand but it is hard to do. It will not haze over like wax and it will shine and protect. It is not preparatory to Awlcare...it is instead of.
Finesse It II is a paint shop safe micro-finishing compound or "polish" for grade 1500 or higher paint defects. It contains no silicones, waxes or other protective type additives. It will produce a shine as it is intended to do (polish) but does not protect anything. It even says right on teh front of the bottle "Contains no Silicone or Wax". AwlCare and Finesse It II are in two entirely different leagues and do two entirely differnt things. AlwCare is a protective polymer paint sealant that contains ZERO abrassives. Finesse It II is an abrassive polish/swirl remover/ micro finishing comppound that contains ZERO protection..
AwlGrip cures like a clear coat / base coat system with the clear very hard solids rising to the surface of the paint creating a hard, high shine shell. If you buff through this very, very thin layer you've ruined the finish.
Essentially the linear polyester resins can not be re-melted, well actually they can but the melt temp is sooo narrow that you go from re-melt to destroy in just a few degree window. What actually happens when you compound or buff a painted surface is surface melt, because the window time of time between melt & disintegrate is so narrow on AwlGrip it is virtually impossible to buff or polish without destroying the thin hard protective shell.
It is nearly impossible, and totally impossible for a novice who has not had serious specialty training or years working with LPU's, to keep an LPU at the right temp to re-melt without destroying it in the process. To dumb it down it sort of goes like this when buffing Awlgrip.
To cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, to cool, right temp for a split second, destroyed
Acrylic Urethane two part paints such as Imron can be buffed because the re-melt window is much wider and they don't cure the same as an LPU. The pigment on an acrylic LPU is the full thickness not sitting under the clear solids..
This photo illustrates a destroyed Awlgrip finish. Note the shine on the majority of the hull even after many years. Now look at the center of the photo and you'll notice a large dull area. This is what happens when you chew through Awlgrips "protective shell". It is destroyed...
Do people buff AwlGrip? Yes but it should only be as a last resort because you will then be a slave to it and it will require AwlCare frequently to maintain a shine..
Here's what AwlGrip has to say (not my words theirs):
"Do not use abrasives, scratch pads, or compounds. Scratching the surface gives dirt a place to cling while wearing out the resin layer. Using abrasives of any kind will reduce the overall life of the finish and voids the Awlgrip Limited Warranty."