SailNet Community - View Single Post - Rozinante Project
View Single Post
  #3  
Old 02-14-2009
Sailormann Sailormann is offline
Here .. Pull this
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,031
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
Sailormann will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Hello Everyone, I am in the process of gutting and rebuilding the interior of a 1966, fiberglass, Cheoy Lee built, Herreshoff Rozinante.
Very nice design and hats off to you for preserving one.
Quote:
I am attaching a picture to show the current condition down below. I would like to hear of any advice, tips or criticism of my plans. So far I have gutted and ground off 90% of the old paint and have knocked down some ugly fiberglass lumps. I plan to use a lot of wood to give the feel of a wooden boat. I am thinking of paneling the overhead with .25 inch beadboard that will be glued in place with epoxy puddy. I chose this option because of how uneven the glass surface is and that it would appear like planks running fore and aft. I will then run perpendicular beams to add support and again to appear like a wooden craft.
As Jeff mentioned - avoid adding any weight at all that doesn't have to be there, and in particular, any weight that is above the waterline (it will adversely affect the boat's performance and seaworthiness).

Generally it is a bad idea to glue wooden sheets directly on to a fibreglass hull. First - it is almost impossible to get a perfect seal when you do this. There will be voids between the wood and the fibreglass. Condensation will form in there and the wood will rot. You may not see it for years but it will be occurring. Secondly, the wood and the fibrglass expand and contract at different rates and in different directions. The wood will constantly be trying to work its way off the fibreglass.

The method that seems to be the most successful is to run stringers of wood laterally on the interior of the hull (perpendicular to the waterline), and then to affix ceiling strips (which is the term used for the slats of wood which line a boat) longitudinally. When you attach the stringers to the boat, don't glue them directly to the hull but rather run a thin strip of airex core or similar material between the stringer and the hull and then attach the stringer using fibreglass tabs on the sides and top of the stringer. This avoids "hard spots" to a large extent and allows for some flexure of the hull when the boat sails.
Quote:
The area where the windows are will be wood, possibly a veneer, which will also be epoxied in place.
This is called the cabin trunk. The veneer should be a workable approach if your interior surface is beautifully smooth. If not, then consider using the ceiling approach as detailed above with solid wooden "gasketing" around the portholes.
Quote:
The rest of the ceiling area will be painted white with a one part polyurethane.
This should work but think about insulation.
Quote:
We have a Sardine woodstove on order from the San Juan Islands that should be arriving in a couple months, which will be taken into consideration when designing the cabinets on the aft, starboard side of the cabin. A seat will fit into the aft, port side of the cabin that will be at a perfect angle to sit and smoke a pipe or look over charts.
Sounds cosy. Remember to think about weight distribution so that your boat is not appreciably heavier on one side than the other.
Quote:
Most of our plans have been inspired by LFH himself right down to the cedar bucket / head, which we recently acquired.
Real purists eh !
Quote:
What recommendations do any of you have for materials for building the cabinets and seat framing, as well as the veneer for the window area (By the way, what is the proper term for that location?)? On the cabinets, I am thinking of marine plywood, possibly beadboard centers on the door and drawers and some sort of fancy wood for the trim work. I realize teak is desirable for the trim, but would like to use a more sustainably and locally (this continent) harvested wood. I also plan to build a sliding hatch cover. Please contact me with your ideas, etc. Much thanks.
Teak is nice wood, but mahogany, oak, any hardwood can work well on an interior. Give a lot of thought to ventilation. Using cane for the center panels of doors and -if possible-drawers goes a long way to cutting down on mold and mildew. Marine plywood is wonderful stuff and you should be able to construct just about everything from it, relying on the veneers for finishing. Good luck with your project ! It is nice to see people maintaining classics and I hope that you post photos of your progress here.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook