Well guys, I spent 6+ hours down there on Friday/Saturday morning, removing and replacing the gearbox. I'm 6'0", 215# - fat bugger - I hate enclosed spaces and I'm none too flexible. It's really not that bad though. If you open up the front of the engine, it's quite airy - provided the engine is cold. When it's hot it's an absolute bear.
I've looked at access through the cockpit floor - but it seems far too complex in view of the wheel etc...
I have 2 lights in the engine bay - I don't know if they are standard or added by the previous owner. They are VERY helpful - might even add another. I hardly need a flashlight. Getting in is not too bad with practice.
Mind your head on any of the long bolts used to fix my cockpit floor in place - I have plenty of scars from them!
PSC 37 #148