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post #7 of Old 01-15-2006
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wood renewal

May not be for everyone, but what I''ve done with some seriously damaged wood is to pull it up, clean out any nails/screws etc, and run it through a planer to get the gouges out, then re-install it with a plywood subfloor to keep the strength up, not realy needed on lightly damaged wood where only a slight clean up thicknessing was needed,or where it sits directly on a supporting surface. and fo veneers it''s out of the question, but veneers can be easily repaired with a patch, cut a bit of veneer larger than the damage, in an irregular shape (not a square or circle, oval triangle or diamond is ok) then set it over the patch and trace around the outside with a sharp pencil, then with an exacto knife, cut just inside the pencil mark, and chip out the old veneer with a small chisel then slowly creep up on the best fit for the patch with the knife. glue the patch in, sand and finish. carefully choosing your patch and aligning the grain can make the repair invisible. works for solid wood too, but it''s more difficult to make the hole you need. the patch sounds a lot harder than it is, with practice you can do a patch in 5 minutes. and it''s the easiest fastest way to go

Do the same on seriously messed up hatchboards, run them through the planer to get a smooth surface, then either place a spacer strip on the edges, or move the track sides closer.

Also, most boats are symetrical, so you can sometimes ''flip'' the sole and put a clean unworn surface up, if it''s planked you can sometimes get by with flipping just the damaged boards, but sometimes you have to remove the whole sole anyway, so it''s just as good to flip the whole thing.

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