Join Date: Aug 2008
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 8
The armchair heroes are out in force today ! "No, but I wouldn't trust my rig to a strip of velcro. I like secured cotter pins." Really, do you think the velcro is under load or just restraining the pin from backing out? Have you ever tried to peel the velcro?
"Those would be toast in a one hour 4 leg W/L race as the Velcro will snag sheets and get tugged". Funny, someone who has never used them is speculating again. Over the last 5 years I've done probably close to 75 w/l races on my boat and others, not once have we had the wrap pins tug open. Again suggest you try them before discounting it. Had a slit ring open once- no more split rings. That C&C 35 must have 3/4" barbed wire sheets to be that abusive to your turnbuckles.
"That is why racing rules require you to carry tools to cut away the rig quick and i can rip the rings out with fast if needed". Thanks, except no one is suggesting that you not carry tools to cut away the rig. If the C&C 35 has rod rigging how are you going to cut it unless you have a Shootit or Holmatro Hydraulic cutter. If you have a Harken roller furling please tell me how you are going to saw through the foil and headstay as the bow rises up and down 6-8 feet and rolls around for good measure. Bolt cutters won't work for that application. Most people don't have a clue about how hard it is to get the rig away from the boat if it blows over the side especially at night. These pins make it easier and faster to unscrew the rig which you can even do if it is under load.
Bottom line if you put the rig up in the spring and take it down when you haul and leave the settings alone by all means use conventional cotter pins. If you plan on tuning your rig for conditions the wrap pins work very well. I change out my wrap pins about every 3 Great Lakes seasons.