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Old 03-19-2010
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While Hinz's book is fairly good, it is a bit dated and would benefit a lot from a revision. BTW, the rodes you describe sound quite a bit weaker than what I'd recommend. What size boat are you anchoring with a 1/2 nylon rode.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waltthesalt View Post
If you want a technical reference the most difinative that I know of is "The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring" by Earl Hinz.

In the Pacific Nortwest we have deeper water. I carry two separate rodes and anchors in the bow. On starboard is a 350 ft rode made of 1/2” line with 37 ft. of Ľ”chain and a swivel. On the port is a 250 ft. rode of 1/2” braded line and 18 ft. of 3/8” chain. The strength of the latter rode is about 40% greater than the former. Both rode arrangements meet the manufacture’s recommendations for both my Bruce and Fortress anchors. A spring loaded link on each rode allows anchors to be switched between rodes. The Fortress is normally attached to the 350 ft. rode with the Bruce is normally attached to the 250 ft rode. The 250’ rode is the normal working rode for anchoring in waters about 30 ft. and for higher winds when the full holding power of the Fortress may be reached. The longer rode allows anchoring in waters up to 50 ft. and up to to 70 ft. with the killett*. For deeper waters the rodes can be attached end to end.

Each rode is in its own line locker in the forepeak with separate hawsepipes. As the original chain locker was large I divided it into two with lift out panels in the chain locker.

*I use a 20# downrigger ball and 80 ft of floating line serves as a killet or sentinel. The ball is attached to the anchor line with a bronze device called a “rode rider” and is lowered down rode. The killett increases the anchor’s holding power heavy weather; allows anchoring with short anchor rode scopes; helps keep the anchor line from being run over and reduces jerky motion with surging conditions. The normal practice is to lower it ˝ way down the length of the rode.
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Telstar 28
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