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post #15 of Old 04-05-2010
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You have a good point... but...

Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
I wouldn't recommend using USED climbing rope as your anchor line. That strikes me as particularly penny-wise and pound-foolish. You don't know what stresses the rope has been exposed to.
I can tell you to a good degree of engineering precision what stress a gym climbing rope can see. A force of over 500 pounds is nearly impossible to create in a gym because of the design of the facility. Gyms are designed to control the climbing experience and to control the liability of the owner. The use cycles of climbing ropes have been studied to exhaustion and are far better understood than is obvious. Breaking a modern climbing rope is practically unheard of (cutting over a sharp edge is a different manner - that happens rarely) and gym ropes are fatter than the ones used in the mountains.

Can you say a much about the history of an anchor rope that has been through one good storm? Was the anchor rope, when new, subjected to the same QC and research effort that a climbing rope is? Does it contain 12-16 completely independent cores for redundancy and reliability under life-and -death pressure? Climbing ropes are a whole different sort of high-tech cordage and the prices reflect that.

Just something to think about. The whole business of when to retire equipment is quite complicated.

For all to hear, I suggested the use only for boats under 2 tons. They have a very easy hand and are extremely comfortable to work with; however, used is used and they will not work with a windlass.

(when asked how he reached the starting holds on a difficult rock climbing problem that clearly favored taller climbers - he was perhaps 5'5")

"Well, I just climb up to them."

by Joe Brown, English rock climber

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