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Old 04-06-2010
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Originally Posted by pdqaltair View Post
I can tell you to a good degree of engineering precision what stress a gym climbing rope can see. A force of over 500 pounds is nearly impossible to create in a gym because of the design of the facility. Gyms are designed to control the climbing experience and to control the liability of the owner. The use cycles of climbing ropes have been studied to exhaustion and are far better understood than is obvious. Breaking a modern climbing rope is practically unheard of (cutting over a sharp edge is a different manner - that happens rarely) and gym ropes are fatter than the ones used in the mountains.

Can you say a much about the history of an anchor rope that has been through one good storm? Was the anchor rope, when new, subjected to the same QC and research effort that a climbing rope is? Does it contain 12-16 completely independent cores for redundancy and reliability under life-and -death pressure? Climbing ropes are a whole different sort of high-tech cordage and the prices reflect that.

Just something to think about. The whole business of when to retire equipment is quite complicated.

For all to hear, I suggested the use only for boats under 2 tons. They have a very easy hand and are extremely comfortable to work with; however, used is used and they will not work with a windlass.
This. Many climbing gyms do not even offer lead walls, for liability reasons. The forces generated from toprope falls are trivial -- you can catch one on 10mm line with your bare hands, known in the business as a Russian Belay.

The QA and safety factors on climbing equipment are top-notch. Can't really splice kernmantle, as has been noted. But it loses little strength in knotting.

Another place for it is traveler controls; Beth & Evans use it on their traveler to limit shock loads during jibes.
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