The major brands of furlers all have different maintenance requirements, as christyleigh points out.
Furlex uses steel bearings that need greasing about once a year. Profurl uses sealed bearings that are maintenance free, at least until they start leaking and then seize up. Harken uses torlon bearings that should not be lubricated with anything other than dry spray lubricant like McLube SailKote. Don't know about the requirements on Alado or Facnor, but doubt you have either, as they're not that common.
Was the standing rigging surveyed? Do you know how old it is? Given that the boat is almost 40 years old, I'm hoping you're not on the original standing rig. Chances are fairly good that the rigging was replaced when the furler was installed, as part of the upgrade. Do you know how old the furler is?
Have you pulled the chainplates and inspected them? Crevice corrosion can be a problem with chainplates, and the plates may look fine from the deck and cabin, but the area that usually suffers the worst corrosion is the section that passes through the deck. As an example of crevice corrosion, I'd point out the photos of keelbolts that Maine Sail has posted on his site.
If you're going to be living aboard, are you going to be installing a heater? Diesel is probably the best fuel for a heater in terms of cost and usability. Roger Long just did an installation of a Dickenson diesel heater
on his boat that you might be interested in reading about.
What other projects were you considering to make the boat more habitable? Ventilation and insulation are usually requirements for living aboard in the winter. Solar ventilators are probably not going to be really useful given your location, at least in winter. Installing furring strips and adding interior paneling with insulation behind it is usually a good idea. The insulation I've installed on several boats that is made by Reflectix and is a combination of radiant heat reflector and insulation, and has a fairly high R value for something only 5/16" thick.