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Old 05-09-2010
tflak tflak is offline
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removing cap rail and sealing deck-hull joint

We have some persistent leaks on our Pearson 385 that we can trace to the deck-hull joint, and so we are considering removing the teak cap rail and re-sealing that joint. Obviously this is a significant job ... the sort of thing we don't want to ever do again, so we are looking for some advice from someone that might have experience with a job like this.

Some of the specific questions that we have are:

1. How to re-seal the joint? I have today removed one section of the cap rail, just to have a look. There is a bunch of 27-year-old silicone in there. I was considering cleaning that out, and covering the joint with thickened epoxy & fiberglass (as suggested by another Pearson owner). But I am wondering if that is a good idea, giving the possibility of flexing in this joint area.
2. When I reseat the teak cap rail, should I use an sealant? Which one?
3. For the screws that hold the cap rail on, and that penetrate into the interior, is there any trick to make sure water cannot enter around the screw, through the hole?
4. Are there any tricks to removing the bungs, so that when I am replacing the teak piece the bungs look pretty good?

We are sure there are other things that we haven't even thought of yet , so feel free to suggest other issues to consider! Thanks for any advice you can give us.
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