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Leaking Portals - new pics

4K views 20 replies 13 participants last post by  downeast450 
#1 · (Edited)
Leaking Portlights - new pics

I am trying to figure out what the heck to do with the leaking windows on my 1977 Columbia C-26T. I took off the inside retainer hoping that the windows would easily come free for me to remove and re-bed. Not the case. As you can see from these pictures, there is very old bedding in 5 of the 6 windows. My question is this, can I get away with just caulking/sealing the hell out of these, as they lay, or, like I presume, must the windows be removed? Removing the window scares the hell out of me as I'm afraid of breaking something and having a much larger problem on hand. Any thoughts, tips, suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!

Mike
 

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#2 ·
I would flood the outside of the window to see if it is the outside bedding is leaking, if it is, then I would work on removing the window very slowly; I used the wide end of a small catspaw and very slowly broke the seal around the port ( working it all the way around )

If the outside isn't leaking, it could be just condensation getting behind the inside trim over time ( looks like you might have slick walls )
 
#3 ·
I had the same fears last year when the port over the galley was leaking...however I fear the admiral more than any project so removed and rebedded the porthole.

I used a wide putty knife and worked it under the frame on the outside. I used a heat gun and carefully warmed the area to "loosen" the sealant. Ended up being painless to get the porthole out.
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys. Slick walls? If that means moisture running down from the through-deck bolts on the top of the cabin, I agree. I am working on removing the mast step bracket and resealing and caulking in and around the bracket and screws. It does seem like water is getting into the ceiling, running down and hitting the window frames. I think I just gotta bight the bullet and yank the portholes.
 
#7 ·
My wife and I just did all four of ours and it was quite difficult. In addition to the wide putty knife, we also used a utility knife to cut away what we could and that seemed to help. The key was an adhesive remover, sprayed it on and let soak, that really loosened the port lights. We rebedded using butly tape and 4200 adhesive sealant with UV inhibitor. We then went on and did both jib tracks. Good luck.
 
#9 ·
I recently rebedded my Catalina 27 deadlights, which at the factory were bedded with butyl tape. I went around the outside frame with a putty knife and mallet, loosening a little bit of the frame at a time, and then they popped out easily.

I think I see a bead of bedding in one of your pics, and probing that should give you an idea if it's rock hard 5200, or something softer and easier to work with.
 
#10 ·
I would tear them out (but I'm new to this stuff). I have a Catalina 30 whose windows were leaking very badly. Once I removed them, I noticed that the wood between the fiberglass was damp and starting to rot. The outer and inner fiberglass was starting to separate and not sturdy at all.

I let the wood dry out, removed the really bad stuff, then used 610 to firm and seal everything up (not the windows...just the structure). Also bought a rebuild kit for the windows.

I guess my point is that I wouldn't have know of the damage to the structure if I hadn't removed the windows completely.
 
#12 ·
I would definitely take them out too, I did mine last year and just went around slowly with a sharp putty knife (lightly sharpen it with a grinder) and a razor blade (from a utility knife essentially) to cut away as much as possible before pushing out from inside. Clean it all up, epoxy the core if you can, making sure to remove any rot, fill it back in with sealent if you've taken out a lot (or epoxy filler) and put the window back on with LOTS of sealant. Wait for it to dry and then cut the excess away with a razor sharp knife.

Just my small 2 cents there.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Houses have windows, cars have windows...even lighthouses have windows, but boats have ports and port-lights. Some houses and cars even have windurs. LoL.

Anyway, if you noticed the leaking during winter months or early spring, it may simply be condensation. Mine do that all the time when it's cold. I'd definitely spray water and find where they're leaking first, as someone suggested. Then if they DO leak...you definitely need to pull them and re-bed them. Contrary to popular belief, 5200 DOES come off....and there is even a product that will help it come off, I forget what it's called. Don't be afraid of breaking them. They are supposed to handle the pounding of greeners coming aboard at sea, if they break simply by nudging them out, they aren't safe in a sea-state and should be replaced with something more substantial. I realize that you may not be going offshore, but you can even get a sustained knockdown in a bay. You want to be able to trust your portlights in that situation.

For re-bedding, I'd use 4200. It's nearly as strong as 5200 and easier to get off, as eventually the portlights will have to be rebedded again. Nothing lasts forever. Rebedded portlights might last 5-10 years or more. I re-bedded all four non-opening portlights (deadlights, maybe?) on my Seawind ketch in year 2000 and not a drop since. The four bronze opening ports I've NEVER re-bedded and they probably haven't been done in 20 years, and they don't ever leak a drop (knock on wood!)...so it's a liitle bit of a job, but not TOO difficult, and once it's done, you're good to go for many years, unlike your deck cabin-top fittings, which should be re-bedded at LEAST every other year.
 
#21 ·
My I-28 had / has lites that should be replaced. They are old and crazed and we are spending more time sailing in conditions that would more comfortably include some 1/2 inch plexi-glass. I think I will replace them with plexi mounted outside the cabin.

Two years ago I did a leak fix by removing, carefully masking and re-bedding. I was very careful and it was a little upsetting to find the &%#@! leaks were still there after my hard work. A tool that makes this process much easier is my Fien oscillator. With a fine metal blade or their scraper blade it made short work of the sealant I removed.

The Islander 28 has its companionway hatch cover, "cover", constructed with a "clamshell" configuration. A portion of the cabin roof is the underside of the lower half of the space into which the hatch cover slides. This half is glassed to the cabin top piece that comes out of the mold. There is a weep hole provision but it is also possible for rain water to find its way into the space beyond the reach of the designed weep holes. It is a tight space and extends well into the cabin with its lowest spots the edge joints that run along both sides of the cabin roof above the port lites. It is hidden by a ceiling liner that is not easily removable. With the lip that the hatch cover rides over, when you push it open, worn down from 30+ years of service, access for rain water is greatly increased especially in a heavy downpour. Pouring a gallon of water into that space confirmed the source of the leak. It wasn't the &%#@! port-lites! I see several I-28s using a fabric companion way cover that would solve this problem and I will be adding one to TD's inventory. I will also repair the worn edge of the hatchway. I am thinking of "disposing" of a couple of old partial cans of AwlGrip by catalyzing it, thinning it a little and squirting it into the perimeter space with a turky baster. It should flow into the joint and cure. If I have enough it could fill the low spots and restore "for the first time", the weep hole design functionality. Sealing this joint properly will be well worth the value of the AwlGrip.

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