Bright-work refinish with Honey Teak, advice?
Iím about to start laying Honey Teak on my bright work laden boat. So far we have stripped the old coating (I believe it was CetolÖ..it ranged from reddish to dark brown and fairly opaque), washed with 2-part teak cleaner, then sanded with 100-grit/folled with red scuff pad, and just about done taping. I was wondering if anyone has any tips on working with Honey Teak that are not in the directions?
This is my first time using the product and still trying to figure out what techniques work best. The Honey (step one) and Clear (step two) are much lower viscosity than varnish. So far I have done the bowsprit, Samson post, handrails, and dorade boxes and have had troubles with runs on vertical surfaces. Honey Teak also does not seem to fill voids and level out as well as varnish.
The Honey Teak directions also say itís possible to apply all coats in one day. I plan on applying 3 coats of Honey followed by 6-8 coats of clear. If I was going to apply more than one coat per day (cap rail, toe rail, cabin top trim, cockpit coaming, rubrail) I would have to get some people to help. Would I obtain better results by working alone and doing one coat per day, with light sanding between coats. This might help with leveling issues? This is by far the largest wood refinish project I have attempted and would really like to nail it on the first attempt.