G10 garolite can be cut with normal tools and doesn't have the galvanic corrosion issues aluminum can have with stainless steel fasteners or the water intrusion issues that plywood can have if the epoxy coating is damaged.
I'd point out that any backing plate should be firmly bedded in thickened epoxy if the surface isn't smooth and flat. The thickened epoxy allows the backing plate to properly spread the load against the cabintop. Also, it is probably a good idea to use fender washers to prevent point loading against most backing plates, especially plywood ones.
Butyl is good. But G10 is a bit of overkill for backing plates. True, it's good for the application, but it's also expensive and not easy to shape for the typical boat owner who might be limited to hand tools. Just use aluminum or epoxy coated plywood. Add fender washers for security that will be beyond what the builder probably originally used.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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