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Just as soon as you get to the end of the first roll-out, you immediately go right over it with the second coat, and then the third. Do not wait. Try to work in small areas. 8" behind the rolling of the 3rd coat, you sprinkle the sugar. What you're trying to achieve is a thick wet batch of paint which will wrap around the sugar crystals. If it's too thin or allowed to dry even a bit, the surface will develop a skin and it will not wrap around the sugar and you will get a thin blotchy texture. This texture technique is best done with a helper.
As for logistics, I'm assuming the the original fiberglass has patches of texture with smooth perimeter borders. If it were me, I'd roll or spray on a two coat covering over the original gel coat, trying to achieve a smooth even look, then when the base paint was dry, I would go back and mask off the areas where I wanted good texture or where the original texture shows thru the Imron and do the Imron texture technique in those areas. The texture can be masked to create patterns such as grids, checkerboards, strips, dots, accents, diagonals, or whatever. You could use 1/4" fineline masking tape and make a grid where the original texture was and the end result would be a handsome texture grid over the original. The Imron produces a durable somewhat aggressive texture. It is definitely not going to be slippery. The texture I have on my windsurfing board has been on there nearly 7 years and it is in almost as good of condition as when it was new, and this is a board I sail maybe 50 times a year. Just as important, the Imron has not yellowed. It is very near the same color as new.
Last edited by Bob T; 06-13-2006 at 12:27 AM.