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Old 10-18-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
I think the key is the execution of the technique.. a properly built and engineered cored hull is going to be stiffer, stronger and lighter than solid glass. The problem is knowing if the boat was truly properly built.. this means good lamination techniques and properly isolating any through hull locations with solid material to avoid risk of leakage into any coring.

I tend to agree with the 'no core below the waterline' idea too. I feel that any blistering that might occur is a bigger problem with the relatively thin-skinned cored hull.

Of possible interest to you, td, our Caribbean sailing friends opted for a solid glass hull in light of the elevated temperatures in the tropics and how that might worsen any issues that may arise with time in a cored hull.
Agreed. I just don't see why you would take the 'risk' on it for a cruising or racing-cruising boat? Farr 40 circut, yes. Americas Cup? Yes. Non-cruising (not J42), yes. On others, why take the chance? Just core above the waterline. How much weight are you rela,ly saving? And if it is that critical, trim the pounds off of other areas like a CF mast and rigging, Removeable furniture, etc. I personally think there are a lot of ways to cut the weight out of a boat for racing while still keeping it 'safer' for cruising.

But again, these are my opinois and I realiz that there are many fine builders (Sabre just to name one) that use cored hulls.

Brian
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