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Cal 33-2 Tender?

15K views 13 replies 11 participants last post by  RichardM 
#1 ·
We're looking at a 1986 Cal 33-2 with shoal draft keel, but as relatively inexperienced sailors want to avoid a boat that is excessively "tender." Can anyone tell us how the Cal 33-2 performs in winds of 15+ knots?
 
#2 ·
Welcome to Sailnet!
Not, that I know anything about Cals, but all boats will seem tender to those new to sailing. It took me 2 years myself to get used to my boat heeling! As you learn a little more about sailing you'll understand how to keep the boat "on her feet" by making adjustments in sail size, shape and deployment. It seems the Pearson 33-2 is the same boat.
 
#3 ·
Any short keel will seem more tender than the same boat with a deep keel. It is the physics. If you should only be considering a short keel if you MUST have the shallow draft, and in that case, you just have the accept the tender behavior, after all, it isn't as if you have a choice.
 
#4 ·
I crew now and again on a Cal 33-2 (deep keel) that races. This design has a fairly tall mast and lots of sail area. If you're racing with max genoas (150%), it can be tender. My recommendation for cruising is to scale back a bit. The boat will still perform just fine with a 135% or smaller jib. Then reef early and often. This boat is not like a Cape Dory which is so under-rigged that you can carry full sail at 20 kn.
 
#5 · (Edited)
The CAL 33-2 is a nice boat. I looked at, and sailed a few of them. They should be fine in 15 kts, but you will soon be thinking about reefing. Someone already pointed out that the physics dictate that, all other things equal, a shoal draft boat will heel more than a deep fin keel.

With all due respect to Denise, it is NOT the same as a Pearson 33-2. The interior layout is very different (ex. Galley to Port on the CAL, Starboard on the Pearson, Head to aft on the Pearson, no aft cabin on the CAL), the drafts are different, the keel options are different...

Here, I'll show you;
CAL 33-2




Pearson 33-2
 
#8 ·
The Cal 33-2 has a sail area/displacement ratio of I believe 18.08, so consider using a working jib (i.e. something under 100%) to start. Putting one reefing the main is okay but might be challenging if you do not have a reefing system or not used to reefing. I’m assuming you don’t have a furling system. I’ve owned two Cals (2-30 and T/4 designed by Lapworth) and found them both to be a lot of fun. I single handed by T/4 (24’) for twenty years before moving up to the 30’ which I owned for 7 years before deciding to move up to a 38’.
 
#9 ·
As per the Cal mystique, their inherent quality speaks for the boat's quality of workmanship & sturdiness. They cross oceans regularly (properly equipped, of course); Seasters, the 1979 31' I have (31'6" LOA) recently performed quite well in 20+ knots while we dodged thunderstorms (some in San Diego and others towards L.A.) with only a light sprinkling along the latter part of a 7 hours sail on the way back from Catalina. When the wind started exceeding 15 knots, simply reduce the main (and I completely furled the 100% jib) for about the last 1 hour for a much more relaxing sail on a run back to Dana Point harbor in great control. Sure, a lighter boat with almost 500 sq. ft. of sail will be both tender and more responsive, leans more but slices through the waves as compared to more of a pounding feel with a stiffer/flatter sailboat. Tried a boom preventer using the boom vang for the first time leaving Avalon on the port side. Set it back in the middle later (carefully not dropping any parts I didn't have in certainty the back up part for). Had a bit of drama resulting from the boom vang line not being cleated resulting in an auto gybe (luckily in light weather, and a lesson Well Learned). These boats can handle like a champ and are easily pointed (meaning a well-balanced sailboat I've been told by my neighbor, a top racer) within a small degree without the use of auto pilot or locking/hold down screw.

A good surveyor, of course find one of the best, reputable person you can find, and he or she can tell you if the boat you are looking at is good or not. It is pretty straightforward, and try to get one that never had (or will get, I'm told) hull blistering from the osmotic scientific stuff. My neighbor's hull looks like a golf ball and mine has 1 (from the mfg/mold process at the keel separation).

I'm just another person who now (just this year got one) knows, so the rest is just what you like, really; other brands out there, both old & new, I'm sure I'd like to score next, like Shannon or Pac Seacraft. Benneteau's are less pricey but I've read somewhat are heavier duty than some other modern boats I've heard. Have fun!
 
#11 ·
I own a 1985 Cal 33. Later 33's had a mast about two feet shorter than the one on mine. She is not particularly tender, the PO told me he never had the rail in the water, and I never have. The earlier posts concerning using a 130% or less jib are good advice. I have a 150 and above 15 knots this will overpower the boat.
 
#12 ·
Maybe it's just me, but I wouldn't consider calling any cruising sailboat tender. If you reef and furl according to the conditions, then you can sail comfortably in anything up to 25 knots. And if you don't reef and furl, then you're tender. I made a funny.
 
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