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cockpit engine access

9K views 29 replies 19 participants last post by  GaryHLucas 
#1 ·
Ok, first of all this may sound crazy. ive been tinkering with my engine and it is darn near impossible to get to. so ive been contemplating sawzalling off the 'L' portion of the galley where the sink is and making it either fold up or slide out.

It was suggested to me by two fellows (who have done it) that by cutting an access panel in the cockpit you can get right into the engine compartment. except for the hole i accidently drilled in the hull (different story) i am not a big fan of cutting holes in boats. so wondered if the SN gang thinks this is totally wacky. anyone done it? contemplated it? am i crazy for even pondering it? it would be super handy as the current set-up requires me to go total spider monkey.
 
#3 ·
Watertight is the operative word. Had one boat sink here because the access through the cockpit wasn't watertight (it was a powerboat) and a number of others take on significant water.
 
#4 ·
Some Pacific Seacraft boats have engine access through the cockpit floor. The access is quite well sealed and secure.
 
#8 ·
Worth a 1000 words



PSC 37 access. Notice the retaining bolt threads and the lip to mitigate against water

I think the cockpit sole would have to be supported to attain this access.
 
#9 ·
Ok, first of all this may sound crazy. ive been tinkering with my engine and it is darn near impossible to get to. so ive been contemplating sawzalling off the 'L' portion of the galley where the sink is and making it either fold up or slide out.
The original question was about cutting the fiberglass liner for the galley. The only problem I can think of is securing the galley after you cut it out since you do not want it shifting while underway. Does this give access to both sides of the engine?
 
#10 ·
Most factory cockpit hatches have carefully tooled moldings to create the water tight seal and allow an essentially level cockpit sole. This would be difficult to properly achieve in a modification to a typical cored sole.

If a large enough aftermarket 'deck lid' type of fitting could be found that wasn't too tall, that might be the ticket here.

Keeping it reliably leakproof would be the biggest challenge after ensuring structural integrity.
 
#12 ·
Here's a flush watertight hatch available in several stock sizes. Not yachty, but very practical... widely used on fishing vessels. On my old wooden boat I gave up on the idea of building a flush wood watertight hatch cover and installed this 30"X20" model right atop my Yanmar 3YM30. Very practical, inexpensive.. highly recommend it.

ANCHOR ALUMINUM RECTANGLE HATCH 20X30"
 
#13 ·
Here are the instructions from one who has done it, with finished pic below:

"I simply cut the panel out of the floor and then re-used it to make the cover. While I was working on the hole, the frame and the cover, I simply put a piece of 3/4" ply on the floor and covered that with poly so I could walk on it and still go sailing.

I had a steel frame made which I bolted to the under side of the floor with a lip for the cut-out to sit on. I then bolted the cut-out to the frame. I also routed out all around the cut-out as well as the floor opening and filled the grooves with epoxy to prevent water getting into the core.

I still have the drawing for the frame somewhere if you ate interested in going further."

 
#14 ·
If you can make the hatch/access panel water-tight and still retain the strength of the cockpit sole, I don't see any reason not to do this. I would recommend using a metal frame for the hatch, to help offset the loss of rigidity that is caused by cutting a big hole in the cockpit sole.
 
#15 ·
I get ants in my pants thinking about cutting anything that might be related to the structural integrity of the boat. Some decks are, some are not. I can't honestly tell the difference by looking at them.

While my suspicions would not lead me to think I would split in half and sink if I cut a cockpit access hole, I do wonder if normal twisting and torquing could introduce a crack right across the cockpit, after I cut a hole in it.
 
#16 ·
This is why I recommend a metal framed hatch. I cut a rather large hole in the sole of my cockpit so I could access the tiller quadrant and such more easily, and used an aluminum hatch to fill the hole. It probably is just as strong as the uncut sole would have been.
 
#17 ·
I've been thinking of doing something similar, particularly to get easier access to the stuffing box on my boat w/o having to wiggle my way through the lazaret. One thing I thought might work, w/o impacting the structural integrity of the cockpit too much, was to install one or two strategically located deck plates.



I think that if I were to install an actual hatch, I would use something like this:



That the hatch and its frame are a little raised would be a slight pain (I'm certain my toes would find that lip in no time), but it would (hopefully) be easier to keep rainwater, et cetera, from getting into the boat and on to the engine. In this case, it would probably be prudent to build a frame around the underside of the opening for support.
 
#18 ·
The issue with the larger hatch you have shown is that most of them aren't very watertight, since the lid tends to flex a bit. To get a good large rectangular watertight hatch, you'll probably need to go with an aluminum framed hatch.
 
#19 ·
I agree with dog - the metal hatches are much better. The round hatches are available in metal as well - I wouldn't rely on the plastic ones where watertight integrity was an issue.

As far as cutting the sole for a hatch as long as it was framed properly it could (should) be stronger than original. My only experience of using one was on a Westsail 32, which has a small cockpit well. The entire bottom of the well lifts out and it was well done as far as watertightness and strength. Probably very similat to the PSC hatch. But due to the sharp "V" shape of the stern there was great access and really nowhere to stand and work. I spent a while hanging upside down.:eek:
On a boat with a flatter run aft this should not be much of a problem though.
 
#20 ·
If one were to go to this effort it seems to me that the opening ought to be big enough to allow engine removal as well... Obviously this means bigger, stressing the need for proper structural reinforcement of the frame.
 
#21 ·
The Beckson deckplates are pretty solid and great for openings up to about 8" in diameter. They're a lot better than most of the other brands since they use a fairly coarse thread and are easy to seat properly without risk of cross-threading the plate. Also, their design allows them to be watertight even if you lose the o-ring.
 
#22 ·
just do it

I say go for it. I've installed two large hatches in the cabin top this summer and with a bit of work it's certainly possible to make the resulting structure stronger than the original.

A steel frame was mentioned, though a plywood frame wrapped in and attached with three or four layers of fiberglass mat wetted out with epoxy would work fine also. Some of the aluminum hatches are probably strong enough by themselves to take up the loss of tension and torsion stiffness of the cockpit sole.

I would very strongly recommend to avoid the plastic hatches unless they are meant for use in a vertical surface that does not need any structural support and is virtually never subject to standing water.
 
#23 ·
This thread is interesting as cutting an access hole would work for me in gaining access to the stuffing box and back of the engine as well as the steering quadrant, etc. My friend had an Island Packet 32 which had a watertight hatch built in to the cockpit sole which provided great engine access. I would want something that is flush to the sole so the metal hatch might be the best for me. If you decide to do this, I'd encourage you to take pictures of the progress and let us know how things are progressing, both the good and bad.

Tod
 
#24 ·
I had that on HR Rasmus. It's extremely convenient. The entire cockpit sole was pretty much an engine cover - so when opened, it was essentially engine compartment size. For service, I could just sit on top of the engine and reach pretty much anywhere.

The cover was not entirely waterproof though - not on my boat and not on any other Rasmus I've seen.

On another boat, I would do that provided I could make sure there is enough strength in the cockpit sole to maintain its integrity.
 
#25 · (Edited)
This is the Anchor aluminum hatch. It's watertight, flush, and plenty stiff... widely used on commercial fishing vessels. Rose Marine in Gloucester had them in stock when I got this one. It dampens the engine noise quite well, but I added an inch of Soundown to the underside to make it quieter yet.

 
#26 ·
Fishsticks—

Nice installation. BTW, where is the wheel on your boat, or is it tiller-steered?
 
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