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What is this genoa track thing for?

9K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  sailingdog 
#1 ·


Okay, my imagination is failing me and apparently I don't understand this thing well enough to get Google to pony up an answer. Can anyone tell me why I have one of these on each jib track? Perhaps it's a really sturdy fender attachment point?

Thanks,
Chris
 
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#2 ·
While you can use it for a fender attachment point, it is really designed for attaching a snatch block to, so you can alter the lead on a genny sheet to be more fair for instance, or to use a second headsail, etc.
 
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#3 ·
How do you run your headsail sheets?

The thing in your photo is called a genoa track car. The knob is either spring loaded or screw-down, and when released, the car can slide along the track.

Attach a block to it to the U (doesn't need to be a snatch block) and run your sheets through it. In stronger winds, slide the car aft to tension the foot of the headsail. In lighter winds, slide forward to increase draft. Note that you can't generally slide the car on the leeward side while it's under tension.
 
#4 · (Edited)
A problem with simply adding any sort of block to these is that the block will flop around and eventually mark/damage the deck. You can buy 'stand up' springs to keep the block upright to avoid this.

Assuming this isn't your only lead car on the track. On many boats, when you have the jib car fwd for a small sail, the port sheet tends to chafe on a coaming/cabin side as it leads to the inside edge of the drum. You could use this to ensure a fair lead to your winches by pinning it at the aft end of the tracks and also run the sheets through a block there.. that way the lead angle to your sheet winches doesn't change when you adjust your genoa/jib car for trim or for different sized headsails. It would add a bit of friction drag, though.
 
#5 ·


Still not sure how I'd use them. I have an asymmetrical spinnaker (blue) that I run through turning blocks at the stern. The 135 genoa (green) I run through a block on the track then back through a snatch block just behind the winch (black). I've never flown my storm sail (red) but it clips onto the rolled up genoa so both sails cannot be flying at the same time. I have blocks that screw into the side decks inside the standing rigging for those lines.

But I still have the bombproof "fender attachment" cars on the track (purple). I could put a snatch block through there but what would use it? Perhaps it is left over from a sail that the previous owner(s) had?

By the way: my graphic belongs to me. You may repost it only with appropriate credit :D

Thanks,
Chris
 
#6 ·
Just curious, do you have any cars that look like this on your genoa tracks?

 
#7 ·
I have something that looks exactly like that. It is the green rectangle on my diagram (can't you tell). I use those for the jib sheets. BTW, all of the hardware shown on the diagram is permanent mounting.
 
#10 ·
Preventer?

Maybe these were used as the attachment point for the vang being used as a preventer of sorts for downwind sailing. (Or in that same vein, and perhaps a bit more proper, if you attach a snatch block to them a preveter line may have been run from the boom through those blocks forward to a block on the bow and back to the cockpit.)
 
#17 · (Edited)
Preventers - East vs. West Coast

Rigging a preventer by putting the turning block at or near the bow is an East Coast :D SAS thing (It is SOP on the Navy 44's.) The idea behind it is if you stuff the boom, it will rise up and not break in two like what would happen if that turning block is amidships and located under the boom. During a West Coast SAS seminar, Jim Antrim pretty soundly denounced the idea because if the boat was traveling at great speed, the boom would still drag and break midsection or at the goose neck and in the first place, you should protect against accidental gybes by using more skillful drivers. Funny, all his boat designs are A-kite screamers and deepest they ever go is about 150. The West Coast way is to use the preventer to keep the main from slatting and have it under the boom. You rig a "fuse cord" to break in case of an accidental gybe or stuffing it in a round up. Somewhere, I have a picture of what happened to us when we rounded up mid ocean - we ripped up about eight inches of through-bolted perforated toe rail. I'd be very careful in rigging a preventer to a T-track. (though, I still do as I still subscribe to the mantra that the driver should never let an accidental gybe or round up happen in the first place. I also use a smaller "fuse".:rolleyes: )
 
#18 ·
More reasons why I prefer a brake to a preventer.
Rigging a preventer by putting the turning block at or near the bow is an East Coast :D SAS thing (It is SOP on the Navy 44's.) The idea behind it is if you stuff the boom, it will rise up and not break in two like what would happen if that turning block is amidships and located under the boom. During a West Coast SAS seminar, Jim Antrim pretty soundly denounced the idea because if the boat was traveling at great speed, the boom would still drag and break midsection or at the goose neck and in the first place, you should protect against accidental gybes by using more skillful drivers. Funny, all his boat designs are A-kite screamers and deepest they ever go is about 150. The West Coast way is to use the preventer to keep the main from slatting and have it under the boom. You rig a "fuse cord" to break in case of an accidental gybe or stuffing it in a round up. Somewhere, I have a picture of what happened to us when we rounded up mid ocean - we ripped up about eight inches of through-bolted perforated toe rail. I'd be very careful in rigging a preventer to a T-track. (though, I still do as I still subscribe to the mantra that the driver should never let an accident gybe or round up happen in the first place. I also us a smaller "fuse".:rolleyes: )
 
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