You should learn how to pull and replace the knotmeter transducer while the boat is in the water, so that you can swap it for the plug when the boat is sitting idle. This prevents growth from gunking up the paddle wheel while the boat just sits.
You should inspect the cutless bearing, re-pack the stuffing box or replace it with a PSS type dripless stuffing box, and check the rudder, rudder post and hardware, along with what you've already mentioned.
Do not paint your prop if it is bronze. Doing so will damage it.
Inspect any bronze through-hulls for dezincification and replace them as necessary.
How severe is the blistering? If it isn't too severe, then you should just fill them with thickened epoxy and fair them. If the blisters are deep in the laminate, you will probably want to allow the hull to dry out, repair the blisters and then barrier coat it to prevent future blistering. This is a lengthy process and not inexpensive to do, but on many older hulls a necessity to prevent much more expensive repairs in the future.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.