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BVI: Alternative to Full Provisioning

15K views 49 replies 25 participants last post by  Minnewaska 
#1 ·
We have booked our first BVI charter for April 2012 and I'm beyond excited.

I received some good provisioning advice while hanging out in the chat room earlier, but something just dawned on me.

Rather than loading up the boat with tons of food for the week, is it naive to think that I can get away with buying some essentials to get us going (and for emergencies when we can't get to shore) and then buying food where the locals buy food on the various islands that we visit? They have to buy food somewhere, correct?

Our preferred way to travel is to wander around neighborhoods, eat where the locals rather than tourists eat (OK, we will be going to Foxy's) and see how people in other countries live. Isn't there street food available? We have no desire to sit on the boat 24/7 no matter how blue and crystal clear the water is. Why spend all that money to isolate ourselves with the same couple for seven days? Nice as they are.

So, to all you cruisers who call the islands your second (or first) home, is this realistic?
 
#2 ·
Absolutely!

In the past, I have brought a bag full of dry goods; staples like coffee, tea, sugar and I bring some parmalet. ( I need my coffee in the morning )
I stop at costcos before I go and get some tins of chunk chicken, and maybe tuna, some mayo, A box or two of linguini and a can or two of clam sauce...A block of cheese, crackers, nuts, salami..etc..whatever you like that will hold up. granola bars..and so on.
One year we actually brought a whole tenderloin of beef that we froze.

After that, I've had no problem filling in on various stops. Celery, onions, eggs, bread etc.
We'd make chicken or tuna salad sandwiches for lunch underway....Breakfasts on board as well. Most dinners we had on shore somewhere..Lobster on Anegada!!
but we usually have a pasta night on board.
 
#3 ·
From my experience, the only other place to provision other than Roadtown was Spanish Town. The prices are higher.

I would stock up at Bobby's which can be done online.

Eating out every night is very doable. Did that last time. Willy T's, Bitter End, Anegada, Cooper Island, Last Resort. (5 day power boat course.)
 
#4 ·
I don't know BVI specifically, but assume that like other Caribbean islands, if the locals eat out it will mostly be "takeaway" (what we call takeout) rather than sit-down dinners - funky looking roadside stands. Or find out where the boatyard workers eat lunch - we got turned on to some fantastic roti hut in Trinidad that way.

Otherwise, I'd just provision breakfast and about 1/2 of lunches & dinners - load up on twice as many appetizers and munchies, and less full-on sit-down meals, as you think. You're right, you'll meet more locals, be more spontaneous ... and honest, you can't starve to death in a week.
 
#5 ·
I don't know BVI specifically, but assume that like other Caribbean islands, if the locals eat out it will mostly be "takeaway" (what we call takeout) rather than sit-down dinners - funky looking roadside stands. Or find out where the boatyard workers eat lunch - we got turned on to some fantastic roti hut in Trinidad that way.
That is more like what I have in mind. The provisioning line item is over $800. I can't see even four of us eating that much food in only 7 days.

A suggestion was to take our own dried herbs and spices, which I will do. Maybe as Tempest suggested I'll also take coffee and tea (must.have.morning.tea). But I really hope that it's possible to buy local food as we go, prepared or not.

Great idea about asking at the boatyards.
 
#6 ·
My first boat was an ex-charter boat and I spent at least a month at the docks at the old Sunsail base and was amazed at the amount of food taken off the returning boats, I am certain that the cleaners supplied their families almost exclusively from charter boat contents. Most of the time charterers will end up going to a restaurant and bar instead of cooking aboard after a long day of painkillers and other beverages on the beach and won't use their onboard provisions.
There are well-stocked stores within walking distance (and carrying back distance) of the docks at Road Town, Nanny Cay, Soper's hole and Spanish Town. Less large stores with somewhat higher prices are close to Hodge's creek, Leverick Bay, Great Harbour on Jost van Dyke and at Anegada.
I usually stock up on heavy liquids and beverages and then do the rest of my shopping on the fly while in the BVI.
 
#7 ·
I wonder if you get the bottle of Pussers if you don't provision?

We've found that the provisioning package is pretty good, but wasteful if you plan to eat out. You will go to the grocery to top off with at least beverages, so just get what you need then, or buy a smaller provisioning package. The grocery store in Roadtown is also expensive, as is everything in the islands.
 
#9 ·
Another thought on eating at restaurants in BVIs. There are many of them of varying quality. However, I can't recall ever eating at one on any island that I would really consider to "eat where the locals rather than the tourists eat". I have done that local program on many out islands in the Bahamas, and fully agree that it is a more memorable experience. A cheese burger and fries at Willy T's isn't very local, although, you don't really go there for the food anyway. While the BVIs are certainly built entirely around tourists, most tourist places are not like Disney. As I think about it, I'm not really sure how welcome you would be to wander into some real local parts of the island. I'm sure you can do it safely, but you need to know what you are doing. BVIers are not British and, while there are plenty of god fearing good people, there is clearly notable corruption there as well.......
 
#10 ·
As a recent BVI first timer to an about to be first timer, I agree with others that provisioning packages can be overkill and wasteful. My family of four did the split provisioning (i.e., all meals and snakes except two dinners), only ate out twice and still had TONS of food and beverages leftover; however, as a first timer I don't think I would do it differently. As a first timer to the BVI, I think there is something to be said for the convenience of pre-ordering (at least a minimal provisioning package) so that you and your crew can get comfortable with the boat and all the "shinny" things that are sure to grab you attention as you make your way around the islands, instead of worrying about going shopping for provisions. Regardless, there is no wrong/ right decision. it is an awesome place ... Have a great trip!
 
#12 ·
With regard to adult beverages, I think one of our party brought a couple of bottles of wine.
I bring the coco-lopez and pineapple juice, tomato juice, worchester sauce, horseradish..
and we pick up the rum and vodka there for bloody mary's and pain-killers. I think we may have brought coffee filters with us too. Lemons and limes we get there.

Last time we filled in most of the items we needed at the grocery store in roadtown on the
1st day, It was a short walk from the moorings after that it was odds and ends as we went.

Bobby's Market Place, British Virgin Islands - Supermarket, Villa and Yacht Provisioning Specialists
 
#13 · (Edited)
Rather than loading up the boat with tons of food for the week, is it naive to think that I can get away with buying some essentials to get us going (and for emergencies when we can't get to shore) and then buying food where the locals buy food on the various islands that we visit? They have to buy food somewhere, correct?

Our preferred way to travel is to wander around neighborhoods, eat where the locals rather than tourists eat (OK, we will be going to Foxy's) and see how people in other countries live. Isn't there street food available?
Hi Donna,

I've been sailing the BVI since 1982, first on charters and since on deliveries and my own boat.

The biggest issue you will have with your concept is that there are few places within reasonable walking distance of most anchorages to do much fill-in purchasing except for canned goods and some odd frozen bits. On the smaller islands many people plan their shopping around monthly trips to Tortola and use the same delivery services charterers do to have food put on the inter-island ferries to pick up at the dock.

For a big basic shop at the beginning of your trip I strongly recommend ordering ahead from one of the big three provisioning companies for delivery to your boat. You won't regret it, especially for heavy stuff like water, drinks, and alcohol.

Your choices:

Ample Hamper was the first of the yacht provisioning company. After many years as the only game in town--and good reviews--they have faded a bit. Their on-line ordering system was still pretty good the last time I looked.

Bobby's Marketplace is a major player in grocery in BVI. The provisioning department is in the main facility in Roadtown and fills orders as food comes across the loading dock so you will get the best they have to offer.

Riteway / RTW is the other major player in grocery. Some things are better at Bobby's and others at RTW. The biggest difference is that the Bobby's online presence is easier to navigate.

What you buy depends in great part on your itinerary. You can do a bit of fill in shopping in Spanish Town, North Sound, East End (Trellis / Marina Cay), Great Harbour JVD, and West End (Soper's Hole). The only good place is in Soper's. I have phoned in an order to Bobby's to pick up in Trellis Bay or Cane Garden Bay.

As I said on the chat I do suggest carrying your own spices from your own kitchen to avoid the expense of buying whole jars of spice. The exception is for curries and peppers -- Sunny Caribbee has some great choices and I bring curry powders back every trip. Bring tea bags if you have a favorite. Personally I avoid traveling with coffee because of the association with drug trafficking; call me paranoid if you will but I do try to avoid fitting into profiles.

A lot depends on food preferences of your group. Big breakfast/light lunch crowd or opposite? Recognize there are some realities of the subtropics, such as the rapid deterioration of bread.

You've said you're going for seven days.

Let's walk through a trip and consider the implications. You have lots of time to think about this -- if you get a food order in a couple of weeks ahead you'll be fine.

First day out of Roadtown I like to go to Cooper Island. My thinking is that it is a pleasant close reach for a couple of hours, gets you a bit upwind in Sir Frances Drake Channel, and avoids the crowd starting the same day as you who flock to Norman Island. It is also the best sunset in the BVI. Grab a mooring and head into the Beach Club. We usually have a couple of drinks and an appetizer and head back to the boat for dinner, but your group might stay for dinner ashore. You know your folks better than we can; talk it over.

Day 2 - breakfast then leave for the Baths. Earlier is better to avoid other charterers and the cruise ship crowds if a ship is in port. Check the schedule - let me know if you can't find it. I take an NPT ball at the far South end and land my crew on the beach at Devils Bay before tying the dinghy to the dinghy line and swimming in. You'll go through the Baths in the reverse direction of most people but it just doesn't make any difference. Walk up the hill afterwards for lunch at the Top of the Baths and then walk down the hill on the other side to Devil's Bay. Sail to Marina Cay or Trellis Bay for the night. There is a Pusser's Restaurant on Marina Cay that is decent with a great view. The Last Resort Restaurant on Bellamy Cay in Trellis is fun if a bit loud for my taste.

Day 3 - breakfast then leave for snorkeling at the dogs. Something for lunch on the boat afterward that is easy to eat in hand during your afternoon sail to North Sound. Anchor off Mosquito Island or Prickley Pear, take a mooring at Leverick Bay or Saba Rock, and settle in. My choice is usually to anchor and eat aboard. If you want to eat ashore my choice would be Leverick Bay but Saba Rock is nice also. BEYC is expensive and over-rated.

Day 4 - breakfast aboard and start for Anegada between 8.30 and 9. You'll want high sun your first time into the anchorage there. Make dinner reservations for lobster (not my favorite but something everyone should do once - they are more like giant crawfish than Maine lobster). Some people like Anegada Reef Hotel or even Potters better. Pick one. Grab a cab to Cow Wreck Beach and have lunch there. Ask for Walker Magnum and tell him Dave on Auspicious says hi if he is on island. Cab back to the harbor.

Day 5 - breakfast aboard and head Southwest toward JVD. This is your big sailing day. Lunch underway. On the 32 you have reserved I'd squeeze in some time on Day 4 to bang together some tuna salad or something. If you have eaten dinner aboard and chose to make chicken you could have made extra and make chicken salad. Mid-afternoon or earlier you should make Sandy Spit which is worth a visit for a romp on the beach. Head into Little Harbour and grab a ball. Dinner aboard or at Sydneys or Harris. Alternatively head into Great Harbour for Foxy's or Corsairs.

Day 6 - breakfast aboard and hop around the corner to White Bay and lunch at Soggy Dollar Bar. Sail to Norman Island and have dinner and drinks on the Willy T or Pirates or both.

Day 7 - breakfast aboard, get lunch ready and sail back to Roadtown. There's no magic bullet here, but it should be clear that food and itinerary are linked. It should also be clear that the provisioning packages from the charter companies are too big for just about everyone, and don't recognize people's individual tastes.

There are as many answers as there are people.

My suggestion is to get your crew together a few times as your plans progress and keep them involved. That's part of the fun and anticipation.

You'll have a tough time making bad decisions.
 
#14 ·
Thanks Dave for taking the time to post this. Everyone's input is going into the discussion with the other couple.

A lot of food for thought. :D

So, I'm getting the impression that there are no "locals" places to eat, no street food vendor types of places and if we find any, it'll be sheer dumb luck. Bummer.
 
#15 ·
No street food. Not many streets. More likely to find bakerys. Local places are most likely to be Roti places up the streets in Roadtown. Spend a few days in one place and get to know the locals and you may find a few other places but they change over time so hard to find except on the spot.
 
#16 ·
Been scratching my head over the local eatery question. Maybe I just haven't looked hard enough since we cook a lot on the boat.

You're going to have a taxi-van ride whether you get to Tortola by ferry or plane so ask the driver about local places to eat. S/he probably won't be much help far from wherever s/he lives.

Roti Palace in Roadtown is reasonably local. It's a bit of a hike from the Sunsail base but might fit into your schedule if you have an evening start. You should pass the Sunny Caribbee spice shop which is a plus.

Christine's bakery in Great Harbour is good - I think they serve breakfast.

Dotsy's in The Settlement on Anegada makes good homemade pizza.

Not local but a bit obscure is the Sandbox on Prickly Pear Island in North Sound -- it's open when it's open.

Not provisioning related are some other thoughts:

In North Sound watch for Anouk who sells jewelry and t-shirts from her dinghy. She lives aboard with her son at anchor near Prickley Pear. She cruised for many years but grew roots in the BVI and has been running her small business there for a couple of decades.

You can get t-shirts all over, but some of the best are at Sydney's Peace & Love in Little Harbour JVD and Soggy Dollar Bar in White Bay JVD. Regardless I pack for charters expecting to buy shirts. Pack light. Take extra money. *grin*

I talked in an earlier post about people on smaller islands doing their grocery shopping on Tortola. It's worth noting that there are incredible numbers of people in the BVI that take the ferry to Red Hook and shop at Cost-U-Less on St. Thomas. The whole food distribution network is based in the USVI and food gets older and with less variety as it gets further into the minor islands.

For walkabout and getting off the beaten track your best stops will be anywhere on Tortola, Spanish Town (properly "The Valley"), Anegada, and any of the three anchorages on JVD (prepare to hike major hills). On Tortola stopping in Trellis (to explore East End) and Soper's (to explore West End) will save a lot of cab fares. From Soper's there is a dinghy canal going East that quickly gets you into residential areas.

I'm sure I'll think of other things.
 
#17 ·
OMG I have a little pair of resin fish I got from Anouk maybe 10 or 15 years ago! She's still at it?
 
#18 ·
Our first 2 trips we provisioned with the moorings provisioning options. It worked out well both times, but we did have food left over. A lot less the second trip. 3rd trip we used Sunsail provisioning which allowed us to choose from a list of items, rather then picking specific meals - more like shopping at a market. Last trip we used Bobby's and will probably use them moving forward. It's a spreadsheet and you just pick the items you want and they deliver it.

What we've learned after our 4 trips now is that eating out adds up very quickly. I don't think we've ever spent less than $100 between my wife and I for any dinner. So the $200 per person we roughly figure for food really doesn't seem so unreasonable. That still leaves us with a few meals ashore, such as a couple of dinners, maybe a lunch and/or breakfast.

We also don't get everything right at the start. We've stocked up at Soper's hole, VGYH, Leverick Bay and Scrub Island. It doesn't take long and they have most things you need.

The biggest thing to think about is how much will you want to eat ashore vs on the boat? That's really the biggest factor in how much you should order. For the first trip, its really hard to know, so you could always provision less to start.
 
#19 ·
Whether you provision yourself, pay the charter company or a third party, I would be careful not to skinny it down too much. It is vacation after all and the last thing you want to have is a food crisis, because you ran low and must find provisions. You really want freedom to do as you choose, not as you must, and that probably leaves a few provisions left over at the end of the trip.
 
#20 ·
When we went to SVG a few years ago we just packed a few plastic tubs full of food from our Wisconsin grocery store. It was all within our baggage limit (our other baggage was not too extensive). Not so sure that would work with baggage charges of the current era.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the input.

I don't know that we're into toting food on the plane although I understand your reasons for going that route. Our intention was to eat whatever was available to the the residents. I mean, they aren't living off of sea water. I didn't realize it would be so difficult or seem like such an odd thing to do.
 
#30 ·
As others have stated, the local residents buy their food at grocery stores on Tortola or the USVI. I suspect they eat their meals mostly at home. There are some small markets in the main achorages that others have covered... Having visited the islands since 1975, I think it's safe to say that they don't eat out at restaurants a lot. I'm aware that's a pretty big generalization, though.

Doug
 
#29 ·
Donna, Dave summed it up nicely. I'd add that you NEED a cruising guide which your charter company usually sends you long before the trip. If not, buy one. If this is your first trip it will be worth its weight in gold/
Other people have said that we'd be sent a cruising guide. Sunsail did not send a cruising guide and said in our confirmation that one would be available on board when we arrive. We're going to buy one ahead of time.
 
#23 ·
a few helpful hints:

yes to packing dried spices you will use, no sense in buying bottles of them when you may only need a tsp for a recipe.

bring large and small ziploc bags, these are great for storing leftovers or open food items. ..especially things like cooked pasta or rice, open pkgs of lunch meat and cheeses etc. this keeps the food sealed and also doesn't take up much space in the fridge. Speaking of which, cook extra of things like rice, pasta, chicken etc so that you are only cooking once, these can be reused the next day for another quick easy meal....chicken salad etc

do not buy a lot of bread in the beginning, it only lasts a few days...as a matter of fact we have found soft shell tortillas are best, they last longer, easy to store and make good wraps!

yes to provision along the way as others have stated, there are good stores all over that have been listed in the posts above, just bring the list so you know when you are in an anchorage there is a store there somewhere or not!

initial provision order should include big heavy stuff as it will be delivered to the boat, saving your back...water, beer etc

on that note, just an FYI, you can go to Bobby's (for example), do your whole shop on your own and have them deliver you and your provisions to the boat...good if you are chartering out of the RT area, ave a bit of time and want to pick your own stuff.
 
#25 ·
a few helpful hints:

yes to packing dried spices you will use, no sense in buying bottles of them when you may only need a tsp for a recipe.

.
Go up to the Caribee Spice store and get Caribbean Seasoning. Take the rest home. Good stuff.
 
#24 ·
We have done it both ways in the BVI, but there is something to be said for the convenience of provisioning through the charter base. We always self-provision in the USVI (Red Hook), but that's a different story.

Eating where the locals eat in the BVI is probably easiest outside Spanish Town, on the road to the Baths, but forget about it in most other places you are likely to go in your charter boat. You will see some locals at Foxy's, but that's probably not the kind of venue you had in mind as a local eatery.

Once under way, we've picked up supplementary supplies on Jost van Dyke (Great Harbour), near Soper's Hole (Tortola) and both Spanish Town and Leverick Bay (Virgin Gorda). The best place was at the Leverick Bay resort, but it wasn't cheap--nothing is in the islands. You can also hunt for a local bakery, like at Great Harbour, but some, like in The Settlement on Anegada, are not considered walking distance.

BTW, we recommend taking a slip at Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor (Spanish town), where you can refill the water tank, stock up at the waterfront grocery/liquor store and take a taxi to the Baths (instead of swimming in from the dinghy mooring). None of this is free, but you will be pleasantly surprised at the slip fee. Alternatively, you could take a long walk to the Baths and check out the local restaurants on the way. If you want a really nice dinner, go to The Top of the Baths in time to catch the sunset. We've never been disappointed by the food or the service. It isn't for the budget-minded, but the prices are reasonable for the quality.
 
#49 ·
...

BTW, we recommend taking a slip at Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor (Spanish town), where you can refill the water tank, stock up at the waterfront grocery/liquor store and take a taxi to the Baths (instead of swimming in from the dinghy mooring). None of this is free, but you will be pleasantly surprised at the slip fee. Alternatively, you could take a long walk to the Baths and check out the local restaurants on the way. If you want a really nice dinner, go to The Top of the Baths in time to catch the sunset. We've never been disappointed by the food or the service. It isn't for the budget-minded, but the prices are reasonable for the quality.
Revisiting this thread now that we're on our way back. We did take a slip at VGYH and yes, the price was surprisingly low compared to Chesapeake Bay prices.

And after doing careful research, The Baths had THE BEST Painkillers. I'll have to see if that research is still valid.
 
#28 ·
I second loading up at Bobbys via their online form, it will be delivered to the dock when you arrive as well. There is also a grocery store in Road town just a 5 minutes walk from the Moorings base along the road. (Take a right outside of the gates and head past the Ark Vintage store, you'll see it across the street past the Gas station)

There is another great grocery store in Soper's Hole. Make sure to head upstairs for the Lavish European food goods including a full service deli. There is another grocery store on Tortola itself in west end, you can dock there and step off quickly. They also have an ATM which you will no doubt need for Mooring fees and additional booze funds. Theres a fruit market there as well in season which makes for fresh nice rum drinks.

Don't forget the floating grocerystore on Norman Island. You can call in your request via radio or step off near the Pirates Bight and ask there.
 
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