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Barnacles?

8K views 43 replies 18 participants last post by  eherlihy 
#1 ·
This is my first year with the boat. I keep her in Narragansett Bay.

Last year, before I purchased her, the owner, surveyor and I tried to motor over to the haul out dock. However, the prop was so covered in barnacles, that we were unable to make sternway to back away from the mooring that she was kept on. The owner jumped over the side with a spatula (I believe that he was fearing for the sale) and proceeded to scrape the prop free-er so that we could make our way over to the haulout. The trip to the haulout slip was very slooow. Once she was hauled, this is what the prop looked like;

I remember the broker stating that his observation is that last year was a banner year for marine growth.

This spring, I cleaned and painted the prop, and prop shaft with two coats of Interlux Transducer paint. The shaft and the prop are bronze, and I know that I need to replace the cutlass bearing this year. Strangely, the prop shaft moved up and down, but not side to side. Here is a pic taken before I painted the prop;


She has been great all summer, and I scrubbed the bottom, but not the prop, once in July and again in August. I've taken her out about once a week, except for the past three weeks, when Hurricane Irene kept everyone in their slip, and the week after when I was cleaning up.

This past weekend I motored out, and she seemed sluggish in response to the throttle. Also, there seemed to be a LOT more vibration than usual (amplitude) over a much wider RPM range. At one point the vibration was so bad that I left the crew at the helm as we were motoring, and checked the engine. :eek: I thought that the motor mount had failed! :eek:The engine (normally very smooth) was jumping about ½" (total) with each revolution of the shaft.

Would any of you care to guess; Do you think that this could be marine growth? Or is it something mechanical?

Also, any suggestions about how to handle the inspection? The water is murky and getting cold. (I don't own a wetsuit)

TIA!
 
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#4 ·
How about rigging a waterproof video camera in some way (using a pole). Some cheap cameras now are good to 15 feet or more, or build your own water proof housing out of plexiglass and use a web cam type camera to your computer screen.

A shorty wet suit is cheap also, and keeps your core temp up if you decide to dive it. A wet suit cap would be good as most heat lost through your head. Try your local surf shop to see what they might have. I have the same problem with barnacle growth, have to dive boat at least once a month. I will try barnacle buster next hull out. But at least my water temp is a constant 78 deg. Get some good gloves, them barnacles are sharp.
Keep warm
 
#6 ·
I'm sure you could get a diver to take a look and clean it off for under $100. More if you want the whole bottom cleaned. Compared to what it might cost you to fix a more serious problem, it seems like an easy decision.

I hauled for Irene and found some barnacle growth on the prop blades. Maybe a half dozen on each side of each blade. Not too bad, I just knocked them off with my leatherman. There were many more on the shaft. She has been in the water since early May, had no anti-fouling on the prop and was never cleaned until then.
 
#7 · (Edited)
In a high nutrient environment you likely have some growth on your prop. Further and of greater concern, in the second snap you have two Zincs, one somewhat wasted and the other looking new, roughly midway between the shaft strut and the hull. Zincs do not give themselves up uniformly and there is a good possibility that they have wasted asymmetrically and have "gone out of balance" and are causing "whip" in the shaft between your strut and stuffing box, leading to vibration, to say nothing of unnecessary wear on your cutlass bearing (in the strut). Considering how warm the water is in your locale, at least during the summer months, do yourself a favor and (1) take a dive over the side from time to time with a scraper to clean your prop and shaft and (2) install a new zinc roughly 2" inboard of your shaft strut, ensuring that you have clean, bare, metal for a good contact when you do.

FWIW...
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the tip on the zinc's. The "old" one is the same one as in the first pic. Because it was less than 10% depleted, I just put it back on, along with a new one. The shaft was scrubbed clean (well, sanded actually), so I know that there is no issue with the electrical connection between the shaft and the zinc. I will have to move it closer to the strut though.

I did jump in and clean the bottom - I should have scrubbed the prop too. Problem is that the water in Narragansett bay is so "nutrient rich" that it is hard to see - even with my $5 mask, so I didn't clean the prop. I couldn't see it!
 
#9 ·
You're in RI? Job Lot has full 3mm wetsuits for $50. I was in the water last Dec. in one, they're actually great
 
#13 ·
erhlihy, you need to call a Frenchman, they'll quickly pick the barnacles bare in order to make bouillabaisse. And pay you for the privilege.

No, really....I got that surprise once, fired up, cat off, slowly started drifting backwards into the next mooring with no power even at full rpms. I would guess the transducer paint helps but given just one month in fertile waters, you're dead meat. Your options really come down to:
a-lunch haul at yard
b-diver, might get a break if you said "come anytime this week" and let him fill in the slot
c-invest in a full 1/4" farmer john wetsuit, because this is going to happen again.

I've been tempted to rig a diaper (like the keel concealers the AC boats used) and dump a gallon of pool chlorine tablets in, but I'm afraid of what sitting in chlorine might do to the bottom paint, the bottom, the metal bits...Anyone who has an ecology problem with that, can put their ethics up front and come by to do the cleaning as a public service every week.

And transplant those poor little barnacles to a refuge where no Frenchman will ever take or harm them. (VBG)
 
#19 ·
My ex's father was French Canadian... and he lives nearby. Maybe I should give him a call?

I still have a bottle of Caribou that I had planned to give him before I got divorced... Better yet, perhaps I should treat the prop & shaft with Caribou? Kill two birds with one bottle?

Then again, that might be considered ecologically cruel...
 
#18 ·
Every 4 weeks! :eek:- I had no idea...

I used Interlux Transducer paint. It seemed OK through July and August.

First year with first boat... Prior to this I sailed OPBs... I'm learning a lot.:eek:
 
#15 ·
If you do go over the side, remember to wear gloves. I tie a cheap putty knife to my wrist so I don't drop it. Can usually get one side of the prop on a breath. I don't worry about the shaft except near the hull and strut. Even with a rinse and WD40 spray the putty knife rusts...generally get a season out of them.
 
#16 ·
In future, store you putty knives/scrapers upright in a small bucket of sand mixed with a little light weight motor oil. They'll come out clean and bight every time. This can also be done in a tool bag with an old plastic mayo jar.

FWIW...
 
#20 · (Edited)
You might also note that larval (planktonic) barnacles are attracted to adult (sessile) barnacles. So, a few adult barnacles on a surface (such as your boat's prop) will attract thousands of "new" barnacles in short order. If you can keep the surface completely clean of any barnacles, including little bits of barnacle shell, you can often avoid the sort of complete coverage that you describe in your initial post. But, thinking that just a few barnacles on a surface (or some left over bits and pieces of their shells) are not worth the trouble of removing is likely to result in a much bigger problem at the next inspection/haul.

The other thing to note is that barnacle settlement from the plankton is very seasonal, usually in the spring and fall (although, there is quite a bit of geographical variation). Often treatments appear to be effective for weeks or months simply because there aren't many larval barnacles settling out of the water column.
 
#23 ·
For years, I've been telling myself to get a dive hookah in order to be able to change zincs, clean the bottom, possibly have to untangle the prop, etc. The would clearly pay off over time. I just saw one that runs on 12v and seems much smaller and easier to store. I'm still thinking hard......

Hookah direct drive scuba diving equipment sales. Hose diving hookah

Being a dive instructor 20 years ago, I would still strongly insist that anyone who might intend to use one of these get actual dive training. Even so, the grand for this unit and a few hundred for training (you don't necessarily need to finish certification to simply dive your hull) would pay off pretty quickly.
 
#24 ·
I was looking at the SeaBreathe unit too... Single Diver Deck Unit [130-D] - $1,395.00 USD : Sea Breathe, The Electric Snorkel

I have had one of those resort diving sessions that have you dive in the pool, then take you out 300 yards, and down 30'. At the time the instructor was amazed at how little air I used - but that was 12 years ago. At the time I thought it was fun, but remedial. I was also big into snorkeling as a kid. Do you really think that I would gain anything (other than the ability to rent equipment) from getting a PADI Certification?
 
#25 ·
I was looking at the SeaBreathe unit too... Single Diver Deck Unit [130-D] - $1,395.00*USD : Sea Breathe, The Electric Snorkel

I have had one of those resort diving sessions that have you dive in the pool, then take you out 300 yards, and down 30'. At the time the instructor was amazed at how little air I used - but that was 12 years ago. At the time I thought it was fun, but remedial. I was also big into snorkeling as a kid. Do you really think that I would gain anything (other than the ability to rent equipment) from getting a PADI Certification?
A boater friend takes a standard air compressor (110v, diapham, oiless type) and hooks it to a dive regualtor with extra hose. Cleans his hull while at the dock. Probably could set it up for say $400 or less. I questioned him about brathing the air but he says he is not worried about it. Air is probably cleaner than most cities.

I am opened water certified. I would reccomend getting at least basic as any knowledge of diving will help you and make you more aware and relaxed in the water while using an underwater breathing aparatus. The rescue methods while under water are important to learn, even if you just clean your hull. A local YMCA or similar could get you trained for a couple hundred dollars.
 
#26 ·
You can clean the prop and shaft in 3 or 4 minutes, so why not use a little pony tank strapped to your chest (so the tank/regulator won't bang on the boat)? You won't be at any real depth, so a small tank should last plenty long enough.

I've inspected the prop and zincs on my boat via free-diving. Again, you're only a few feet underwater, so it only takes a few round trips to clean things up.
 
#27 ·
I think it depends on your fouling rate. I clean my prop and running gear once a month and it takes me 20 minutes with a dive tank. I have done it free diving but it takes longer, I am exhausted, and it is much harder work. If I clean the entire hull add another 30 minutes. This is for a 34 foot sailboat. Depending on someones condition, free diving could lead (and has) to a heart attack (same probably with scuba, but at a lower rate).

That brings up a good point, working underwater is even harder than shoveling deep wet snow (and a lot of heart attacks happen shoveling). If you are not a heathy 20 year old, maybe one should check with their doctor before diving. Here in Hawaii, we lose a torist every few weeks due to snokeling heat attacks. People come out here on vacation that never snokel, go out in the water and die.
 
#29 ·
1st, get even a basic cert.!

A pony tank or even a 40 cu ft costs almost as much as a full size 72/80+ cu ft etc. and is the same price for a fill.

You could search craigslist for a tank that's not too old and has a current "Hydro." (check latest date code near top of tank) and VIP (Visual).

Steel tanks last a long time, but be careful if an Alum. is more than 10 yrs.

I scored an almost new (12/09 code) tank for $80 on pvd. Craigslist in the beginning of summer. YMMV lol
 
#30 ·
Is it ok to paint bottom coat on the prop shaft and prop to slow down barnacles? I have seen some boats do this. I did not when I bottom coated last, at the recommendation of my surveyor. I have stainless shaft and bronze prop. Of course the zincs would not be painted nor there contact pionts. Or would barnacle buster paint be better?
 
#31 ·
Bottom paint containing copper will lead to galvanic corrosion of the shaft and prop. Several manufacturers make TRANSDUCER paint which contains "stuff" that keeps the "critters" at bay, and off the boat.

Here is what Petit claims;

Transducer Paint 1793 is for use only on plastic transducer housings and bare metals including steel, stainless steel, cast iron, copper, bronze, galvanized steel and lead. It forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater plastic housings and metals, and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Transducer Paint's smooth, hard surface will self-clean in service, and can be used above or below the waterline. The dried film of Transducer Paint contains 93% pure zinc.
 
#32 · (Edited)
I just took a diving class and bought (off eBay) all the scuba equipment this summer for exactly this reason. I've done a lot of freediving, although nearly all of it when I was younger. The course was invaluable. Some things are the opposite from freediving, like NOT holding your breath - easy to say, but it takes practice after being used to freediving.

Doing the prop (and the hull) with a scuba tank is easy and a lot of fun. At $8 for an air fill, the equipment will pay for itself. And if you keep everything on board, you'll be prepared if your boat gets tangled in a lobster pot line.

As an added benefit, you can help look for that lost mooring, when ice takes your friend's winter marker off the line.

Finally, the water isn't THAT cold yet. If you are in good shape, have a nice built-in insulation layer and have a buddy standing by, put on some old clothes and go for it. Hugosalt, DavidPM and I did the same thing last January: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gener...-bene505-hardcore-certifiable-you-decide.html

Regards,
Brad
 
#33 ·
Since my boat sits in the water year round, I just pay a diver to come and clean the bottom and replace zincs as needed. I have them do it quarterly and it cost me $90 a quarter plus the cost of any zincs used. Simple, effective, and fool proof (the fool being me of course).

The weekend I went up the mast (take a look at the blog for pictures) we were down below in the cabin and started to hear from very strange noises. It was the diver. I grabbed my water proof camera, stuck my hand in the water and snapped a picture. He posed for it.

I'm happy to pay the money to have a pro clean the bottom. For me, it is well worth it. If I was retired, or lived in an area with warm water, it might be different. A guy in my Yacht Club with a C400 does his own diving and it is quite handy. He is retired however.

Dave
 
#40 ·
I painted my prop and shaft with a Petit anti-fouling paint specifically for props and shafts, good for bronze.

I'm hauling out this afternoon to replace a weepy through-hull. I've been in since August, the water has been too foul from floods and storms to dive on the boat for cleaning. It'll be interesting to see what's grown on the hull in the last month and a half.
 
#42 ·
Referencing the discussion re Bene505 post # 32...
Seems to me reading Bene's post in full...one would come away with Bene "The water isn't that cold yet" suggesting a mid Sept.
dive/hull cleaning ...not his Jan. dive on his boat.
However since it was brought up...and as disconcerning as it may
be to some with a mild winter climate...some Northeasterners
have been in the water all year round for years.
For Bene who with his son who surfs all winter in the Atlantic off
Long Island's south coast...a short dive in the creek is a reasonable
undertaking.
From Cape Cod, R.I., Long Island, N.J. coast has been for years
winter surfing territory even competitions.
There are kids to the 60 somethings out there on a regular basis.
Certainly not for everybody and not without its dangers.
Hugo
 
#43 · (Edited)
Been busy lately, not on SN that much this past week...

Fast brings up a good point about caution when swimming in cold water. However, we are talking about mid September water temperatures in this thread, not January. While surfing last weekend (late September), there were guys out all day with no wetsuit. That's wind and water exposure in later September. The water just isn't that cold in early September around here. (Likewise, it isn't that warm in April on the other side of the calendar. In fact, it's downright frigid in April.) Note that deeper water is going to be warmer in September. Shallow areas can get cold fast, so plan accordingly.

Water temperature lags air temperature significantly. For example, one of the secrets of NY New Year's Day polar bear swims is that the water still holds a little heat. Trying to organize a polar bear fundraising swim in late February would be inadvisable.

Put another way, the water is about 70 degrees in RI today. That's swimming pool temperature in early summer. No way that's a dangerous or ill-advised temperature to go for a swim behind your boat.

This is from Wunderground at this link: http://www.wunderground.com/US/RI/Narragansett.html


Regards,
Brad
 
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#44 ·
Yeah, I had mm2187 do the deed, and then decided that I was a wuss when I helped him in and out of the water.

I COULD have done it myself, but mm2187 had the tanks, the gloves, the mask, a camera, and he brought his own tools, so I didn't have to! :cool:

He also changed a zinc.

On a positive note, the engine sounds fine again!:)

Zincs looking tired​

Prop looks good​

Strut looks good from this angle​

Strut looks good from this angle too​

New Zinc​
 
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