You can see that there ain't no way that I am going to get the coupling off that shaft and have either one of them survive, so I guess that I am on the hook for a new coupling and shaft.
With a bronze shaft use a sawzall with 14TPI metal blade. You will cut through it in under 2 minutes with no messy dust.
FIRST QUESTION: Can you still find a 1" Bronze shaft anywhere?
First answer no, and a question, why? The AQ 22 shafts are far better in nearly all regards especially with newer graphite impregnated packings, which bronze shafts REALLY dislike. The term "bronze" is a misnomer anyway. They are basically up to 40% zinc and are more of a manganese bronze than a true marine bronze. They were called Tobin bronze but it has a very high zinc content. No one is making bronze shafts anymore and if anyone tries to sell you one it is not shafting bronze but rather rod stock...
I've googled around a bit, and come to the conclusion that you cannot. Therefore I am looking at replacing the bronze shaft with a stainless steel shaft. One vendor recommends something called "Aqualoy-22" for it's corrosion resistance (~$230). - I am not sure of the length, but I believe that it is 49".
Try to avoid buying shafting on-line. You have two EXCELLENT shafting shops in your area Roses in Glocester and New England Propeller/Ron Peck. The on-line shafting work I have seen has been JUNK and not to industry spec. Sloppy coupling fits, no spooning of the keyway, no shaft spotting, runout of more than what is acceptable, incorrect lengths etc. etc.. You may get lucky but why bother with two excellent shops so close by who will 100% stand behind their work.
That coupling IS toast. I am therefore looking at replacing it. My option is a regular coupling for ~$50 + ~$80 to machine the shaft, or a Vetus Bullflex 2 coupling, which will NOT require machining the shaft. I am told that this will compensate for a shaft that is up to 2º out of alignment, it will also help reduce engine vibration, and it will isolate the prop shaft from the bonding system, so I will not have to worry about galvanic corrosion from stray current in the marina. (I will still need a Nylon bore reducer to isolate the propeller from the shaft, however.)
If your engine is your earth ground it is required under ABYC P-06 to jump across any isolating shaft spacer or coupling to keep this earth potential. On top of that your engine WILL NOT be isolated as you are still connected to earth via the cooling system intake. Stick with a regular split coupling of go with the Vetus but do not try and isolate it.
SECOND QUESTION: Does anyone out there have experience with the Bullflex coupling? Is it really WORTH ~$450?!?!?
Yes I do and no I don't feel it is worth anywhere near what they sell for. You can buy a Buck Algonquin split coupling for about $65.00 and a good shafting shop will fit and face it anyway in the price of the shaft and coupling. You then align the boat and away you go.
Then there is that ancient stuffing box... I have no idea how old it is, although I did repack it (successfully!) this spring. I fear that the hose will let go when am I least ready for it, and I'll find my boat at the bottom of the harbor. I am considering replacing it with a PSS Shaft seal.
When you get the shaft out take it to your bench grinder with a brass wheel in it and clean it. The thing will clean up as good as new. It is 85-5-5-5 bronze and will likely outlast you and the boat. A new hose is about $8.00. That is a Spartan stuffing box and they are one of the best built. You can buy the wrenches for it directly from Spartan Bronze.
THIRD QUESTION: Is the PSS Seal really worth ~$250, or should I continue to use the old stuffing box (this is getting expensive!).
If you had a v-drive I might say yes but with the new packings you are fine sticking with what you have and $8.00 for a new 6 ply Buck Algonquin stuffing box hose.
Finally, before I hauled the boat, I was prompted to replace the zincs on the prop shaft and scrape the prop because the engine was vibrating a LOT. I watched in horror as the engine seemed to vibrate over ¼" under load. Also, while I believe that the motor mounts were new in '04, at least one of them looks questionable:
I have never been a fan of the Bushings Inc. mounts and I would never have them on my own boat.. The factory Westerbeke/Universal mounts are far quieter, considerably better built and will transmit a LOT LESS noise and vibration to your hull. The drawback is the hole centers are longer on the factory mounts. Motors DO MOVE under load that is why they are not hard bolted.
I have read elsewhere that the Vetus K75 mounts are a good fit for this engine. I would not want to have mismatched engine mounts, so I am looking at 4 Vetus K75 engine mounts.
I have worked on boats with the K-75's and while slightly better than the Bushing's Inc. mounts I still would choose the factory mount every time.
FOURTH QUESTION: Does anyone have any experience, or advice, with these?
If the hole centers are the same try them PYI's mounts are also decent and I like them better than the K-75 but still not as good as factory Westerbeke.
The last part (the part I NEED) is a Johnson Duramax cutlass bearing for ~$35...
All told, after shopping around, the total comes to about $1,200 in parts alone.
Go with a local shafting shop, which will be more money, but lose the PSS, Bull Flex and other unnecessary items and you'll be good.
You may notice in the above picture that the oil pan looks questionable too. I just purchased a used Kubota pan for $25 on ebay (PN: 15371-01614), which, with some drilling, a gasket and some screws, will replace the Universal Pan that retails for $400
. Heck, I may even be able to clean up the existing pan, but would prefer to have a backup - just in case.
I've seen pans a LOT worse. Once put my finger through one...
Dezincification like this, on bronze shafts, is not unusual. I removed this shaft last Monday and found his shaft was literally FLAKING off under the packing. No wonder it leaked.. It was also dezincified under the prop and cutlass.. While it did last about 25 years this shaft has passed by "safe for use" a number of years ago...
The dezincification was not just on the "surface"... (cut with a sawzall BTW)
It also extended down the shaft as well.