Noice that if an island is surrounded by real deep water, the wave will not refract so much to the opposite side, if shallow water wave will refract around.
There are 3 basic types of waves, those generated far off shore from large storms that bring in a ground swell and when that hits the beach, very large waves.
Ah ... thanks. That explains the waves I experienced in Tahiti, when we were surrounded by a barrier reef. The waves were gently and likely caused by the low pressure above land that brought in the breezes. In Mexico, when exposed to the Pacific, they were incredibly powerful.
Haven't seen the Sailing Weather - Marine Weather Forecasts for Sailors and Adventurers - PassageWeather
site before. Thanks for that reference!