Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Incline Village
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
As with most boat projects it's coming along but not as fast as i would like!
I separated the topside from the hull, no real problems.
1 Take off the rub rail, in my case most of it had been knocked off, (it was wood).
2 Take out all the self tapping screws, around the joint face
3 take out the bolts in the teak wood board that is inbetween the quarterberths and most probably has the electrical blocks on it.
4 undo the hose clips on the down hole for the keel wire
5 Pull it apart (you will need to get something inbetween the joint faces to break the silicone seal)
I'm glad i did pull it apart as i found that the teak bead around the inside of the hull was very dry and brittle, and had cracked around the screw holes. Also the fibre glass had cracked around the screw holes too.
I lifted off the top with my wife myself and 2 teenage kids, so it is not too difficult.
I have since replaced the wooden bead, and i think made it more secure by clamping and screwing it on with an additional layer of glass and resin sandwiched inbetween, which strengthens the cracked screw holes also.
I flipped the topside over and have worked on that, stregthening the areas that had stress cracks, and where i intend to mount stantions and the pulpit, and also repairing the mast step from the inside, (much better that working upside down with resin!)
I flipped the top over with just 3 of us but it would have been better with 4
I've since painted the inside of the topside(??) and have flipped it right ways up to work on the topside.
I jacked the hull off the trailer and used my snow tyres as supports at the back, withe a plank on top, and a couple of step ladders with planks inbetween to support the bow, such that i could remove the trailer.
I have sanded all the crap off the hull and taken off the paint where it was blistered, maimly along the water line. I have also cracked any osmosis blisters i could find in prep for filling the holes with 3 m premium grade filler (the vinyl ester one). I will then paint the hull with interlus 3000 primer in prep for painting.
I am also planning to use any left over 3000 primer for the topside, since there is no osmosis, it's not really so important as the hull, plus the gel coat is pretty well intact, just crazed a little in places.
i hope to get the painting finished within the next couple of weeks then it's mount all the rigging back on and join the 2 pieces together.
i will of course paint the inside of the hull but I don't want to get inside it untill i have it back on the trailer.
The race will be with the weather as i live at over 6000ft and we do sometimes get early snow, however i should be good until mid October.
i will not mount the keel until i have the hull back on the trailer, and depending on timing this may be before or after I join the hull together again. I have purchased Taco V11-3447 rub rail kit to finish off the joint face, this should arrive soon. All in, I expect the cost to be around $1000 for the overhaul. (I have purchased a used replacement keel and some other parts totalling $350 which is included in this). Paint is expensive!
I could not verify the hull number. The documentation says 346 and dates the boat to 68' however I could only find the number 134 etched into the hull and the only way to see this was after i had separated the two halves.
The plate in the transon said only "Sailboats Inc Oakland CA" which i think was a dealer
I took photos of the original registration numbers before i sanded these off.
I have to take the boat down to the local dept of wildlife to title and register it. I can only do this once i have it back together on the trailer. I understand this is not too onerous a proceedure. They want to see the boat, take measurements, and i assume check it out for water worthiness. My trailer was re registered as a special as the original VIN had dissappeared, so the same may happen with the boat. I understand HIN's were only required for boats built after 1973. I may just have to call it a Jolley21 rather than a Mac/Venture! After the work i've put into it i think it will be justified too.